Get in line

Get in line

Geometry’s basic line gets fresh exposure at Milan Fashion Week

Published: Wed 25 Jun 2014, 1:32 PM

Last updated: Fri 3 Apr 2015, 5:28 PM

Armani with Steven Tyler and Joe Perry of Aerosmith

Emporio Armani

The predominantly black-and-white collection has a strong graphic component, with lines transmitting a sense of energy from the garment, from steady pulses, webs and waves up to full black and white bold stripes. Colour makes cameos in contrasting stripes of turquoise and aqua-green.

“After years of doing a little bit of everything, a melange, florals and ethnicity, finally a little cleaning,” Armani said.

The silhouette is loose and easy, with pleated trousers or drawstring athletic pants. Silk and cotton shirts loosely cling the frame, and T-shirts, worn under coats, are soft.

Fendi goes faux

The jeans on the Fendi runway were not at all what they appeared. The shirt was printed cotton and the classic jacket was in reality leather with a denim print.

Besides the denim elaboration, the collection by Sylvia Venturi Fendi also featured woven leather pieces and striped knits, as designers continued their study of the line. Again, there were no ties but silken scarves tucked inside a sweater’s V or beneath a jacket lapel. The colour palate was eclectic, with something for every taste.

Etro goes for Biodiversity

The Apulia-based brand Etro is promoting biodiversity in fashion - using natural fibers in part of the menswear collection for next summer, and promoting a diverse diet.

Menswear designer Kean Etro said they wanted to show how thread could be made out of natural products, not only hemp, which is well-known, but also banana, cereals and milk.

The collection opened with a series of looks made from natural fibres, maintaining a predominantly white palate before a colour burst of egg blue, salmon pink and canary yellow. Instead of the brand’s familiar paisley, the prints were photographs of plates of food, from fruit to crustaceans. AP

Gucci earns its stripes

The Gucci man for next summer has earned his stripes, along with golden buttons, epaulets, insignias and other trappings of a mariner’s life.

The collection has a decidedly nautical flair, featuring trim and dignified white, navy and red suits with suggestions of officiality in stripes. The collection projects both luxury and a free-spirit.

The silhouette is disciplined, with the expected blazer, double-breasted jacket and peacoats, but creative director Frida Giannini also includes jackets with Nehru collars and blousons with a contrasting buckle waistband that can function as a shirt or jacket. Pants are lean and straight, or baggier and lose.

The stripe appears also appears on lapels, scarves tucked inside jackets that substitute for ties, and on the straps of the collection’s ample leather duffel and messenger bags.

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