Weaving through life

The UAE Center for Carpet Production and Community Development in Afghanistan is a Fatma Bint Mohammed Bin Zayed initiative that offers women income-generating employment in carpet production, a skill they already possess

  • PUBLISHED: Sat 12 Feb 2011, 7:04 PM UPDATED: Mon 22 May 2023, 3:00 PM

Yearsofconflict and seasonal hazards have left the Afghan people in a vulnerable position experiencing some of the world's lowest human development indicators in the world.

According to United Nations Human Development reports, 42 per cent of the population lives on less than $1 per day, the average life expectancy is 44 years, 257 of every 1,000 children die before the age of five, 61 per cent of the population have no access to clean water, and the average years of schooling for an adult is three years.

In June 2010, the UAE entered into a partnership with a local Afghan investor, Tanweer Investments to help tackle the problems. Together, they launched the Fatma Bint Mohammed Bin Zayed Initiative, a carpet production and community development programme in Afghanistan. Since then it has employed over 1,000 looms and completed over 600 carpets.

“Shaikha Fatma is the daughter of General Shaikh Mohammed bin Zayed Al Nahyan, Crown Prince of Abu Dhabi and Deputy Supreme Commander of the UAE Armed Forces and the brother of President His Highness Shaikh Khalifa bin Zayed Al Nahyan,” says Walied Jabarkhyl, sales director of Tanweer Investments at the stand at Carpet and Arts Oasis at Dubai International Airport Expo Centre in an interview with City Times.

Afghan women showcase the art of weaving at the stand at the expo. Samples of wool (Merinos and Ghazni), various coloured dyes that go with carpet making and a short documentary on the whole project attract the attention of visitors to the show.

“We firmly believe that empowering women to be agents of change is an essential element to achieving the end of hunger and poverty. Our programmes aim to support women and build their capacity. We mobilise people at the grassroots level to build self-reliance and forge effective partnerships with the local government,” adds Jabarkhyl.

Pioneering work

The project creates jobs and promotes the export of Afghan carpets worldwide. Weavers are provided with a loom, raw materials and design. “We are committed to investing in those areas that will have a positive impact on society and further advance the social economic conditions in Afghanistan,” he stresses.

Chairman Dawood Jabarkhyl has more than 25 years of experience in the handmade carpet industry. He found it necessary to give back to society what he knows so well and his vision ensures that benefits are generated in a process that modernises this industry.

Afghan carpets reflect the heritage of cottage-based craftsmanship passed through generations of families. “It is our view that strategically placed investment in a modern facility, which makes use of traditional expertise, would be profitable and would provide employment for women in parts of Afghanistan where there is a great lack of suitable industry,” Jabarkhyl says.

Employment, education and healthcare

Offering employment for women (especially widows), routine monthly health checks and compulsory education for the children of employed women are the main focus of this $35 million project since its launch in 2010.

Jabarkhyl notes: “Seventy per cent of those employed are women. Of this, 35 per cent are underprivileged like war widows. For them, this project is like a light at the end of the tunnel. There is a similar unit in Jalalabad as well.

“We've got to highlight the human element in handmade carpets. For more than 30 years these people have been exploited. Our business is based on fair trade. The women earn $2 to $5 a day. This is a community-based development that creates jobs. When there is employment, economic stability follows. We provide free vocational training as well,” he informs.

Improving living standards

The project empowers women by giving them eligible income, healthy employment and educated children. Today, this initiative is improving the socio-economic conditions of women and local residents receiving these services. They benefit from the employment and business opportunities. Additionally, the centre's medical team routinely conducts monthly health check-ups for the employees and their families.

Vocational skills and training

This initiative stresses on vocational courses too. This includes training women who spin wool to better their expertise and move onto more lucrative areas such as carpet weaving.

Project research indicates that 40 per cent of women spinning wool for their livelihood will better their skills and advance to weaving within the first 18 months. Subsequently, the project hopes to employ bright young designers from universities in order to develop tasteful and contemporary designs.

“In future we look forward to implementing a designing and natural dying course in carpet making,” Jabarkhyl adds. The Afghan Ministry of Public Health and the Afghan Ministry of Education support the project making sure all children enrol in schools.

Environment friendly

The project implements ethical business practices and fulfils corporate social responsibility. By using natural dyes and washing methods, there is no environmental damage to the Kabul River, which runs into Pakistan and eventually joins the Indus.

“We want to help people help themselves. Only indigenous Afghan wool is purchased from nomads. It is handspun and this adds to the quality of the carpet. Another important aspect is that only vegetable dyes are used. Indirectly, more than 15,000 people benefit from the programme including the shearers and the drivers.

“We have a designer from the UK who has a database of 600 designs for the international markets and an Afghan designer for the local markets. Everything is done in-house from A to Z starting from collection of wool, dying, weaving, processing, cutting, washing and export. These are 100 per cent natural with strict quality control. Carpets are exported to the USA, Europe, London, Dubai, Germany and Denmark,” Jabarkhyl adds. Today, there are winds of change and renewed hope in life.

Mesmerising spreads

The Carpet and Arts Oasis at Dubai

International Airport Expo Centre is a treasure trove of rare carpets in a wide array of patterns - flowers, portraits, trees and hunting scenes

If you are visiting Dubai for the first time, the place you must not miss is the Carpet and Arts Oasis, an exhibition currently on at the West Hall of Dubai International Airport Expo Centre.

Organised by Dubai Customs during Dubai Shopping Festival, it has become an unavoidable meeting point over the years for people who appreciate the value of carpets, its quality and beauty. This year, Carpet Oasis has a new look. The 12,000-square-metre exhibition houses 52 exhibitors showcasing carpets from Iran, Pakistan, Turkey, China, Afghanistan and India.

Khalid Al Muzin, head of the organising committee for Carpet Oasis said: “Participating in DSF and organising these events help us to enhance Carpet and Arts Oasis in the Middle East and the world. The event attracts visitors who are passionate about collecting antiques and unique carpets that are available every time. There are more than 170,000 carpets and rugs on sale.”

Wide range

Inside the exhibition hall there are carpets, hundreds of them, handmade from the world's leading carpet producers. Here is an opportunity to get the best deals. Examine them closely and the beauty of individual pieces can be appreciated.

These resemble a canvas and are works of art that bring forth the expressions of the weaver. They are reflections of tradition, culture and history of individual tribes who make them. The design involves painstakingly long hours of work and by running your fingertips on the carpet, you can feel its texture, fineness, and learn about its authenticity.

In addition to geometric patterns, weavers have drawn inspiration from nature - flowers, plants, camels, and horses. Tribes who live near lakes depict birds of different hues. Pattern wise, no two pieces are identical. Some of them look close to a painting. There was a portrait of a young lady in black and white. It looked much like a sketch until you ran your hand on the material.

According to the sales staff, the quality of the carpet depends on the number of knots. There are two different types of knot used in contemporary oriental weaving, the Senneh or Persian knot and the Ghiordes or Turkish knot.

Oriental rugs are made in one of two ways. They are either hand woven (kilims) or hand knotted (pile rugs). Each carpet has a specific combination of stitch, motif, pattern and colour, and is governed by a set of unwritten guidelines. The weaver improvises within these parameters and uses elements, which must go together like motif and stitch, sufficient to identify style.

Colour schemes, a critical element of style, are similarly taken care of. Soft lines and floral patterns form the basis whereas in others one can easily see the imprint of the classical style. They are forceful reminders of a particular culture and lifestyle. In traditional carpets, silk or wool is the basic weaving material.

Expert advice

Belal Ahmed, sales manager of Persian Carpet House that has 24 showrooms in the UAE - in Abu Dhabi, Dubai and Sharjah - eagerly explained the various aspects. An appealing factor in Persian rugs is their warm and soft colours, he said. “Majority of these rugs are dyed using colours from vegetables that are grown on the mountains or local farms,” he added.

What should you remember while choosing a carpet? Ahmed answers: “First, consider your budget. Decide how much money you are willing to spend. Be sure about the size of the carpet. Take a tape measure and define the width and length of the area where you are planning to place your carpet. This is a sure way to save time and money.” –

suchitra@khaleejtimes.com

Carpet and Arts Oasis is open till February 20 to visitors from 10am to 10pm on weekdays and 4pm to 11pm on Fridays.