Focus on classic cuts

Koba and Daud Mirage are set to launch their new fashion label Koba Kochae in the UAE.

  • PUBLISHED: Mon 30 May 2011, 11:56 AM UPDATED: Thu 11 Jul 2024, 4:28 PM

City Times speaks to the brother-sister duo behind the new fashion brand

UAE-BASED FASHION DESIGNERS Koba and Daud Mirage have a collection inspired by Afghan fashionistas of the 1940s and 1950s. Lightly textured outfits display boundless talent and a profusion of inspiration. Designs celebrate vibrant styles, colour and imagination. It is all about the “exotic chic.” They capture the intrinsic radiance and warmth that makes each design special.

While the silhouette is ultra-feminine and sensuous, an ethereal quality is captured in the lightness of the fabrics. Combinations are classic and timeless. Silks, chiffons, brocades, organzas, satins, velvets and other natural fabrics are used with awesome results.

So how did they come up with the name Koba Kochae for the collection? Explains Daud Mirage, Fashion Director, Koba Kochae, “Kochaan refers to the many nomadic tribes of Afghanistan while Kochae refers to a female belonging to such a tribe. Koba is a typical female name within such a nomadic tribe. This inspired us to use the name Koba Kochae.”

Adds sister Koba, “Fashion in Afghanistan presently is quite conservative. Afghanistan in general is quite 'unlinked' to the global fashion industry. A proper brand, in line with international fashion trends, does not exist there. Therefore, people in general have no clue as to what really is in or out of style.”

THE BEGINNING

Daud started his love affair with fashion while he was enrolled in a finance graduate programme. However, he wanted to do something more creative and practical. On the other hand, Koba took private sewing classes at the young age of 14.

Daud then followed his dream and studied at the Richard Robinson Academy of Fashion Design in Ottawa, Canada, while Koba pursued her passion at the American University of Dubai and the National Institute of Fashion Technology.

Their educational background provided them the basic overall understanding of the key aspects of the world of fashion, which served as a foundation on which they further built both their knowledge and capabilities.

MORE TO COME

Although 'self-made designers', this brother- sister duo with roots in Afghanistan, have previously been commissioned a number of grand couture dresses by private clients.

However, they insist that their first ever collection is just the beginning of what they have to offer. “Our spring-summer 2011 collection titled Deh Afghanistan Malaykeh (Princesses of Afghanistan) pays tribute to the Afghan fashionistas of the 1940s and 1950s. We wanted to bring back the elegant, feminine, and classic style of the many influential women of that time - a style that was forced to fade away due to the Russian invasion of 1979,” says Koba.

“In the 1930s to 1980s, fashion was quite up-to-date in Afghanistan as people back then were quite fashion-conscious thanks to royal fashionistas such as Queen Surayah. We have incorporated her clean classic cuts and elegant overall style in our designs,” she adds.

“I've used clean-cut lines and a blend of shiny and matt finishes to bring back the glamour look of the 1940s. My collection has lots of sheer fabrics, sharp shapes, tussles/ropes and close-fitted skirts and dresses, all of which were dominant trends of that time,” explains Koba.

The Koba Kochae brand in general promises to bring together the rich and vibrant heritage of the family's Afghan roots, transformed into high-end fashion apparel that is both contemporary and strictly in line with trends.

“We follow strict international fashion trends, with a constant strive towards craftsmanship and perfection,” says Daud.

Koba mostly handles the creative side while Daud handles the commercial side. They admit that often there are disagreements. “Yes, often a third party is called in and usually the third party wins,” he confesses.

PRODUCT LINE AND SERVICES

The main product line consists of high-end women's ready-to-wear with plans in place to develop both a couture and bridal line as well. Each garment undergoes a rigorous production process, with great attention to cut, detail and finishing.

The label also offers two specialised services through its respective studios – the 'Bespoke Studio' which offers custom-made service and the 'Styling Studio' for those looking for a complete styling consultation service.

Both the designers admit that they get their inspiration from a number of mediums and finally select those that can be transformed into something wearable.

“Our contemporary/western tastes and ideas were influenced by studying various styles of top designers who have contributed a lot to the fashion industry in the past 50 years such as Yves Saint Laurent or Karl Lagerfeld to name just a few,” she says.

To both the high point in being a designer is when there is acknowledgement of one's creations. Born into a business-oriented family and being extremely dedicated they say they had no major difficulty in design, production, sales, finance or advertising, the different aspects in launching their own design label.

In Focus

What type of customers do you target?

Koba: My clothes are designed for modern elegant women in their mid 20s to mid 40s. They have a strong personality, are very daring, and yet very feminine at the same time.

What one piece of advice would you give someone wanting to start a career in fashion?

Daud: One should focus more on the commercial side of fashion and not just the creative aspect.

What trends do you see for 2011?

Koba and Daud: Heavenly fabrics, fabulous vivid colours plus soft neutrals, floral prints, lace, lots of dresses and skirts, stripes and geometric prints, to bring back the tailored and classic look of the 1940s to 1980s.

What is your plan?

Koba and Daud: To build up the brand in Dubai followed by establishing the same in other Middle East regions as well as abroad - Europe and North America.