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Winter Wonder

Armani showcases chic shorts and DSQUARED2 and Versus pull out all the stops for a colourful parade on the Milanese catwalk E

Ven as the fashion world showed signs of upheaval, designers in Milan presented some of the most composed winter collections in many a season.

The looks in six days of Milan Fashion week were opulent — lavish velvet and brocade fabrics made even richer by beading, sequins, brooches and golden embroidery.

Many of the winter 2013 previews, which ended on Monday, had the over-the-top feel of costumes, conveyed in detailing like feathers, fur trimming and silver mesh.

Military looks were the most prevalent, with nearly every designer featuring garments with golden buttons, epaulettes and double-breasted styles. That was finished off with military caps and equestrian boots.

The basics for the season are cropped pants, shorts, the pant suit and dresses topped with jackets. Hats made a comeback with plenty of styles: Gaucho hats, mod leather caps, fedoras, flapper cloches and furry Cossack headgear.

Brooches and other ornaments were stitched onto garments, evoking a theatrical feel.

The palette was mainly black, offset by deep reds, blues, and the return of purple.