‘Toby is about embracing tradition’

In Saudi where conformity rules, fashion has been all but ignored. It is a place where breaking social norms isn’t tolerated, and tradition is placed above all else.

But fashion designer Hatam Alakeel has a vision to help these traditions evolve by embracing his culture and giving the Arab fashion world a much needed facelift. By taking the traditional kandora and tweaking it with a Western touch, he has created a growing movement in society that is beginning to embrace the stylish garments – drowning out even biggest of skeptics.

Here he talks to City Times about his groundbreaking designs, societal reaction, and why style and elegance can be applied to all cultures.

Where did the idea behind the brand come from?

The idea behind Toby has been lingering in my head since I moved back from the States about seven years ago. I had to wear the regular white thobe at work and every day before going to work I would ask myself why does it always have to look the same? Why can’t we have more options in what we wear? I then noticed that some local designers would start designing more creative thobes and the younger demographic would also use the thobe to express their personal style. So it struck a chord with me. I though to myself; the market is obviously ready to embrace fashion. Why not give them my idea of the most fashionable designs incorporated into traditional wear. Why not take fashionable traditional wear to the next level.

How would you describe the brand to those who have never seen it?

It is traditional wear revived - a revelation in thobe design with the ultimate in luxurious fabrics and latest in cutting edge design. Toby is simple yet edgy; fashionable but never loud or imposing. Toby is high fashion and can also be casual at the same time.

How much work goes into launching a fashion line?

It most certainly does not happen over night. It depends on the designer’s perception and goals with the line and his or her creative process of perception and execution. It ‘s a lot of hard work patience and perseverance. Some designs can happen overnight and others need more time to perfect but once the final product is brought to life then all the hard work is forgotten.

What has influenced your personal sense of style?

Every thing I design with Toby is personal and based on what I feel is stylish, fun or elegant. I am always influenced by natural elegance. It could vary from the way some one speaks to their style of walking or even the way they hold their fork. Designers are lucky because there is so much to be inspired by and so much beauty all over. Inspiration does not always have to be tangible or visible. It comes in many shapes and forms.

What kind of reception have you received from men who have always worn the traditional Kandoora? Have you heard any criticism for breaking from tradition?

I am not really breaking from tradition. Toby is about embracing tradition. It’s been mostly positive although I have had some interesting remarks too! I have this group on Facebook called Toby group and in it I have a blog that basically gives anyone the opportunity to express their thoughts on Toby and what the brand is all about. So this person joins my group and calls Toby a disgrace to tradition, and it seemed like it angered many of the group members.

If people looked at my concept it’s not just about fashion but it’s also about maintaining tradition from a more progressive perspective. As for the person who is used to wearing the very traditional untouched garment he can also find that at Toby but with a very subtle Toby touch. At Toby we don’t try to change tradition we just feel like consumers should have options.

What do you think of the Saudi fashion scene?

We still have a long road ahead of us but the population is starting to appreciate and enjoy fashion more than they used to. We are however heading in the right direction - it’s a growing market that requires more time to evolve. But it will definitely get there as the younger generation is quite keen on trends, contemporary style and what’s happening in the world of fashion.

What is it about fashion that drew you to it?

I have been an admirer of fashion as far as I can remember. Going to New York on a regular basis while I was at school showed me how fashion can be seen from various perspectives and really made me want to be a part of the industry. Ever since I have been wanting to become involved in the industry but never found the right formula. Then about a year ago I decided to turn my hobby and passion into a full time job. What drew me to fashion is the thought of being able to do something I enjoy and turn that into my own personal business.

Do you feel like your new line is ground breaking?

If I did not feel butterflies in my stomach and goose bumps behind my neck after completing a design then I won’t even consider adding it to the collection. This spring summer collection will have many various West meets East reincorporation.

You will see new methods of mixing western garments with eastern style. New colors and fabrics and a modern take on the use of Arabic typography revamped through modern imagery with embroidery.

What are some things that will surprise and excite people about Toby and where all will it be available?

I prefer not to give any additional details as it would ruin the surprise factor. Let’s just say that Toby will be again pushing envelopes and taking tradition to the next level. Toby is now available in Jeddah boutique, soon to be at Harvey Nichols, Riyadh and Villa Moda Dubai and Kuwait.

What is your personal definition of style?

Style is personal; it’s a state of mind. It can’t be taught or developed. That way I encourage people to express themselves. We have a very conformist society that does not encourage people to express their personal style. I encourage it and hope to see more and more trendsetters. So many people have not been able to tap into their personal style and I think it’s a shame and I hope to make a difference. Always remember that style and elegance can be applied to all cultures

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kadry@khaleejtimes.com