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Summer of style

Designers took a cue from the unpredictable and increasingly mild winters, filling their collections with looks once reserved for warmer weather on the Milan ramp

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Published: Tue 28 Feb 2012, 10:11 AM

Last updated: Tue 7 Apr 2015, 11:23 AM

DOLCE&GABBANA

Black velvet, black lace, black chiffon and more gold than even Midas could muster are the basic ingredients of the dramatic Dolce&Gabbana winter collection.

Dramatic, as well as theatric.

Front row guest, British actress Helen Mirren, on her way to pay her compliments to the designing duo backstage, described the clothes as both “decadent and opulent” and said she loved “every bit” of the show.

For another front-row guest, Italian actress Monica Bellucci, the show was “molto Siciliano,” a reference to the Dolce&Gabbana fashion vision.

Either way, there was definitely an aristocratic feel to the collection, from the dainty gilded head dressings that framed the models’ demure hairdos, to the dainty little buttoned booties that adorned their feet.

To lighten the look, the designing duo interspersed white or pretty Victorian floral patterns into the basic black palette.

MISSONI

Missoni’s look for next winter is urban nymph. In the woodland fairy sense.

The silhouette of the collection was slim. Tightly-fitting knit pants, figure-hugging dresses and wraps that button in back to a snug close all allow the Missoni heroine to nimbly navigate the concrete jungle.

In the sleek vein, designer Angela Missoni introduced a new texture to the Missoni look: latex. Grey latex gloves and corsets provide a protective layer for our adventurer.

While the sleeveless dresses and lightweight wraps could easily transcend seasons, Missoni also fortified the collection with winter-ready items such as stole wraps that snake around the body, knitwear coats with fur collars and fur hats that swirl around the head.

Missoni also glitzes up the collection with sequins — a trend on the Milan runways — reaching for more natural hues of copper and silver.

The basic color scheme was graphite, evoking asphalt, set off by autumnal hues in browns and oranges and forest greens.

MARNI

Marni is getting decorative for next winter. Big brooches, beads and sequins were featured in the womenswear collection.

Large white sequins and golden beads covered the front of a dress, a skirt and a clutch, creating the impression of an exotic flower garden. Round golden brooches mimicked buttons down the front of black jacket with short sleeves bedecked in golden sequins.

Designer Consuelo Castiglioni’s collection carried a strong graphic element, both in the prints, seen in lightweight dresses, and the bold blocks of colour on wool crepe dresses and suits — which showed off oversized pockets.

Marni’s palette was black, tobacco, yellow and red, often contrasted pastels. Asian-inspired tops and pants in matching prints suggested both comfort and disciplined construction.

FERRAGAMO

The collection started with a parade of gold-buttoned double-breasted military coats and ended in a waltz of romantic evening gowns.

By day, the Ferragamo woman favours a crisp gray flannel double-breasted suit complete with epaulettes, or a lightweight Astrakhan fur skirt under a double-breasted jacket.

She will wear horsey boots, but prefers a high-heeled version in embroidered suede.

Her gold-buttoned military coat hides a fetching black wool lace dress or printed ruffled skirt underneath.

Nighttime tells another story. Here our heroine shows her true feminine soul, in a bejeweled chiffon evening dress with spaghetti strapped V-neckline and ballerina skirt, or a transparent embroidered peasant blouse with matching shimmery silver silk skirt.


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