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At London Fashion Week last month, there was one show that whipped buyers and fashionistas into a fashion frenzy. Yes, Grande Dame Vivienne Westwood delighted and yes, Christopher Kane charmed, but Gupta’s label Ashish sent shock waves through the crowds. The designer’s Spring/Summer ‘09 collection played out like fashion fantasy; models sashayed down the catwalk in loud sequinned prints, badge boilersuits and G.I. Jane-style camouflage gear.

Since debuting at LFW in 2004, the designer has gone from strength to strength, attracting celebrity fans including Madonna and Tori Amos, winning over the notoriously fickle fashion pack and receiving favourable press in fashion bibles worldwide.

Amidst nervous chatter about the impact of the Credit Crunch, the brazen Ashish laughed in the face of impending doom by presenting a lavish, decadent and party-focused collection. Refusing to compromise on his style vision, he lit up the fashion world with garments that are certain to become staples on the red carpet. The playing card motif featured strongly in the show, with a cropped white minidress drawing “oohs and ahhs” from smitten spectators. Jumpsuits covered in badges were textured and edgy, whilst the use of 90s stone washed denim gave the show a distinctly American feel. The military theme surfaced throughout.

Reminiscent of Goldie Hawn’s character Judy in the classic Eighties comedy Private Benjamin, we were reminded that this was fashion’s front line. Quirky London label Tatty Devine, which had collaborated with Ashish on the collection, created a selection of unique accessories to complement the looks. Clothes were outlandish, yet accessible; experimental yet wearable.

Describing his designs as “sexy, glamorous and sporty”, Ashish delves deep into the Hollywood aesthetic, producing items that scream elegance and style.

He finds inspiration in the world around him, but also in the realms of seductive and engrossing fiction: “I love watching old films”, he tells me. “I am also inspired by characters in books, artists and even people I encounter on the street.” Current inspirations include “Douglas Sirk, disco music and folk embroidery.”

He is also affected by a sense of place and looks to London for additional creative input: “I love how intense and multicultural it is,” says Gupta, “and how there is always so much going on. It finds its way into my work.”

But what does Ashish think of the Middle Eastern market?

“It’s incredibly important to me”, he says. “Women there love fashion and the number of fantastic shops over there pays testament to that.”

Does he tailor his designs to the market?

“I don’t design for anyone specifically except myself”, he tells me. “I have to be happy with the garment and feel confident in its design. That said, I do take market criteria into consideration, and items can be customised. Sometimes a dress or skirt may need to be made longer, depending on demand and whether something will work.”

“I believe that my clothes can potentially suit everyone”, he continues. “I produce exclusive evening wear but my designs are also found in trendier shops that target a younger audience.”

“I have quite a few stockists in the Middle East”, he says, “including boutiques in Saudi Arabia, Kuwait and Dubai. Sauce and Tigerlilly both hold my designs and I have a dedicated following in the UAE. It is one of the biggest markets for my clothes, together with Russia and China.”

“I would love to show my work at Dubai Fashion Week”, he continues. “It would be great to see people get excited about the new collection.”

citytime@emirates.net.ae