Prada springs a surprise

Miuccia Prada took her models down to the enchanted part of the garden where the fairies live, introducing them to a dreamworld that verged on nightmare and put dark circles round their eyes

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Published: Thu 27 Sep 2007, 11:03 AM

Last updated: Sat 4 Apr 2015, 8:51 PM

AFTER ONE of northern Europe's wettest summers on record, fashion designers showing in Milan this week are confidently predicting more seasonal sunshine next year for their airy, light-as-a-feather creations.­

Certainly Miuccia Prada did not have downpours in mind when she sent out her models like a flock of fragile butterflies, all a-flutter in outfits fit for Tinkerbell.­

Each body-hugging frock had a second sheer silk layer superimposed, giving an iridescent halo effect in pale pinks, watery greens or aubergine, printed with delicate Asian-inspired motifs.­

Low, draped necklines lifted gently as the models moved down the runway, their legs encased in striped hose and platform shoes.­

Voluminous skirts and dresses in green and white silk or gilt leather were a modern take on aristocratic costume before the French Revolution.­

At Bottega Veneta, the silhouette was fluid in the house's hallmark dusty pastels, with dresses cinched into the waist and brushing the calf, discretely luxurious with hand-finished details.­

German designer Thomas Maier delicately draped and pleated linen, silk and crepe in grey, pink and champagne for his sophisticated and refined vision for next summer.­

The lingerie-led brand La Perla, as ever, remained undecided whether to show outerwear or underwear, and often opted for a mixture of the two, like a bra worn on top of a dress like a breastplate at the front, but plunging into the material at the back, or another bra half-exposed under a blouse with a single sleeve.­

Cocks feathers and swansdown added lightness to the collection, in fringes on a bolero, forming a delicate collar or encircling the waist of a python print dress or as an anklet above snakeskin stilettoes.­

At Blumarine the collection was short and very sexy, Saint Tropez chic. Anna Molinari teamed baby-doll dresses in girly turquoise, primrose and pale pink with bikers' leather jackets in bright colours.­

Hot pants came in sand or even bright orange knit, with little lace-edged tops or waiters' waistcoats covered in mother-of-pearl, some just held together by a tiny clip between the breasts.­

At Iceberg the mood was rock'n'roll, with lashings of black leather and rhinestones mixed with gold plastic for skimpy dresses and cropped jackets with wide sleeves.­

Wednesday, the fifth day of Milan Fashion Week, continues with Roberto Cavalli's main label, Salvatore Ferragamo, and Giorgio Armani's second line, Emporio Armani.



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