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Cross-Season Style

Milan designers engage in season-bending with furs, boots and leather dotting the runway despite it being a summer 2014 preview

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Published: Tue 24 Sep 2013, 12:23 PM

Last updated: Fri 3 Apr 2015, 7:55 AM

Dolce and Gabbana

Dolce and Gabbana seemed to be saying, “If you got it flaunt it,” in their latest summer collection loaded with gold coins.

The treasury of Greek and Roman coins appeared in print on silk dresses and skirts, as tassels on bags and shoes or as ostentatious buckles on leather belts, or simply as jewellery.

Underlining the message, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana sent a bevy of models down the runway all in gilded lace for their traditional show finale.

The collection oozed luxury, from the coloured fur stoles, and even tops, to gold-encrusted mini-dresses with matching gilded bags.


Marni creative director Consuelo Castiglioni played with volumes of the clothes. She deployed pleats, ruffles and bustles unconventionally, putting, for example, a bustle on the front of a skirt to soften the silhouette, creating a loose ruffle that flows like a waterfall down the front of a skirt or another tighter and busier that conveys the softness of a baby chick.

High-waist trousers had elaborate folds on the front, as sort of origami that wraps around the body, and drop into deep cuffs.

The collection featured many Asian touches, from the fine floral prints to the Geisha-style super-high thongs.

Visors and chunky jewellery finished the looks, along with geometrically-structured handbags.


The Missoni summer look is ethnic without going native.

Sarong skirts share the runway with oversized T-shirts and cropped jackets. Prints can be purely geometric Missoni or Japanese pop, or ecological, such as sea waves and mountain crests. Fringe and netting is used either to create an entire outfit, or as embroidery.

The collection features a number of the iconic Missoni knitwear prints, but with a contemporary graphic flare.

The favourite colour mixtures for next summer are orange, viola, turquoise and bluette. The collection also plays heavily on black and white contrast. As a monochrome for dresses and skirts alike, the bright turquoise is sure to be a summer hit.

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