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Watch review: Dh135,000‭ ‬Overseas Panda Chronograph is one for the connoisseurs of luxury

Along with fellow Swiss maisons Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet‭, ‬the Vacheron Constantine brand forms the highest echelon of‭ ‬horology‭‭ ‬and has been so since 1755

Published: Fri 18 Apr 2025, 4:51 PM

Updated: Mon 2 Jun 2025, 11:32 AM

As one among the Holy Trinity of Haute Horology and the oldest watchmaker in existence‭, ‬Vacheron Constantin has a pedigree that competitors would give an arm and a leg for‭, ‬and connoisseurs of luxury watches swoon over‭. ‬

Along with fellow Swiss maisons Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet‭, ‬the Vacheron Constantine brand forms the highest echelon of‭ ‬horology‭ ‬–‭ ‬the Holy Trinity‭, ‬as it’s called in the world of watches‭ ‬—‭ ‬and has been so since 1755‭, ‬when it was founded in Geneva‭, ‬Switzerland‭.‬

With 270‭ ‬years of an unbroken tradition of fine watchmaking‭, ‬Vacheron Constantin‭ ‬—‭ ‬or VC‭, ‬as it’s more popularly called‭ ‬—‭ ‬knows a thing or two about making a fine watch‭. ‬Among the many exploits that the brand has under its long belt is the watch with the most complications in the world‭. ‬But the Overseas Panda Chronograph is a more simple‭, ‬though sophisticated‭, ‬affair‭.‬

As a brand that takes pride in having tradition and purity as its calling card‭, ‬VC took its time to enter the segment of the integrated bracelet sports watch‭. ‬The maison’s famed‭ ‬“Overseas”‭ ‬line of sporty and travel-oriented watches got a design makeover in 2016‭, ‬which saw it adopt‭, ‬for the first time‭, ‬the bracelet‭-‬and-case-in-one design aesthetic pioneered by the legendary watch designer Gerald Genta for the Royal Oak watch from VC’s rival Audemars Piguet‭.‬

VC already had a chronograph in its Overseas collection since 1999‭, ‬but when the line was redesigned into the integrated bracelet sports watch aesthetic‭, ‬the initial chronograph released two years later by the house was a‭ ‬“reverse panda”‭. ‬Collectors‭, ‬of course‭, ‬thought that the venerable brand had missed a trick by overlooking the panda design‭, ‬and VC obliged five years later with the first‭ ‬“panda”‭ ‬Overseas chrono‭.‬

The panda dial is among the gold standard of chronograph watch design‭, ‬taking its name from the eponymous Chinese animal‭, ‬with the smaller black subdials of the complications on the white background of the larger main dial reminiscent of the black spots around a giant panda’s eyes and ears on the animal’s white face‭. ‬The reverse panda‭, ‬as the name implies‭, ‬simply reverses the colours on the dial‭. ‬And‭, ‬as watch aficionados know‭, ‬it is traditional to release a panda dial before a reverse panda‭ ‬—‭ ‬a tradition that the conservative house of VC had‭, ‬surprisingly‭, ‬not adhered to for the Overseas chrono‭. ‬

But rectification is on hand with the Overseas Panda Chrono‭, ‬which is another masterpiece in the best of VC tradition‭; ‬its overall design and aesthetic‭, ‬finish‭, ‬sheer quality and covetability‭, ‬making it yet another icon from the famed Swiss watchmaker‭.‬

The case‭ ‬

As much a master of materials as movements‭, ‬VC has lavished great attention on the case of the all-stainless steel integrated Overseas Chrono‭. ‬The case sports a finely brushed finish‭, ‬with the brushing perfect to a fault‭, ‬which is visually offset by a highly polished bezel and the sparkling sapphire crystal glass that make for a striking contrast‭.‬

A soft iron casing ring ensures anti-magnetic protection‭, ‬and the screwed-down crown and quarter-turn screw-lock push-pieces make for a 15‭ ‬bar‭, ‬or 150-metre water resistance‭. ‬A transparent sapphire crystal caseback displays the gorgeous VC movement‭, ‬and while with a 42.5mm diameter and thickness of 13.7mm‭, ‬the watch is on the slightly larger size‭, ‬it will still fit most wrists comfortably‭.‬

The movement

VC’s mechanical‭, ‬self-winding Calibre 5200‭ ‬powers the Overseas Chrono‭. ‬This in-house calibre is a column-wheel chronograph movement‭ ‬with no less than 263‭ ‬components and 54‭ ‬jewels‭. ‬It beats at a high 28,800‭ ‬vibrations per hour‭, ‬or 4Hz‭, ‬and offers a power reserve of 52‭ ‬hours‭. ‬And the‭ ‬piece de resistance‭ ‬is the solid gold rotor for automatic winding‭, ‬which is clearly displayed through the exhibition caseback‭.‬

The dial

The most vital part of any watch is the dial‭, ‬and VC has nailed this on the Overseas Panda Chronograph‭. ‬A subtle sunburst finish‭ ‬characterises the silvery white main dial‭, ‬which makes the three black subdials‭ ‬—‭ ‬one for the running seconds and two chronograph counters‭ ‬—‭ ‬visually pop despite being slightly recessed‭. ‬All hands‭ ‬—‭ ‬hour-markers and hours‭, ‬minutes‭, ‬seconds‭, ‬and subdial hands‭ ‬—‭ ‬are made of 18k white gold and highlighted with Super-LumiNova‭. ‬Legibility is brilliant‭, ‬whether day or night‭. ‬A framed date window anchors the dial at 4.30-o’clock by subtly and cleverly offsetting the symmetry‭. ‬

The straps

As an integrated bracelet sports watch‭, ‬this VC comes with a brushed stainless-steel bracelet with half Maltese cross-shaped polished and satin-brushed links‭. ‬Two additional straps are provided‭ ‬—‭ ‬a black calfskin leather with grey stitching and a black rubber strap‭. ‬

A stainless-steel triple-blade folding clasp with push-pieces and patented interchangeable system is compatible with both additional straps‭.‬

Whether chairing a board meeting‭, ‬timing a lap on your supercar‭, ‬piloting your superyacht or simply sipping an espresso on the French riviera‭, ‬the Dh135,000‭ ‬Vacheron Constantin Overseas Panda Chronograph is a versatile watch that lends style‭, ‬panache‭, ‬and‭ ‬sophistication to any attire and any occasion‭.   ‬