How a new acne movement is saving face(s)

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How a new acne movement is saving face(s)

Pimples have, to date, inspired anything but positivity. So, what's with the new trend to lay them bare?

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Karen Ann Monsy

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Published: Fri 24 Aug 2018, 12:00 AM

Last updated: Fri 24 Aug 2018, 2:00 AM

If you've ever experienced a skin breakout, you'll know perfectly well that instinct to want to reach for a concealer and cover up the offending spot with the magic of makeup. God forbid it was more than a single zit, because the more severe forms of acne - inflamed red spots that literally take over your face and give you the appearance of having come out on the wrong side of a battle with a hornet's nest - have the power to make you want to cancel all your appointments and just stay home. That's because stepping out with such unsightly blemishes has always been unthinkable... well, at least, that was the case, pre-2018.
The current skin positivity movement, however, has been gaining such ground that it's making the beauty industry do a veritable volte-face. Pimples are now neither gorgeous nor ghastly - they're normal. And, surprisingly, it's the industry's own models and influencers we have to thank for kickstarting this debate. Hashtags like #FreeThePimple (more on that in a bit) have been around for a few years now, but it was Kendall Jenner (she of Keeping Up With The Kardashians fame) boldly taking to the Golden Globes red carpet with zits in January this year that really shone the spotlight on what's now being hailed as pimple positivity.
The 22-year-old model's journey with acne is one she's addressed before. In a post to her fans on her website about three years ago, the InstaGirl spoke of how her "terrible" acne completely ruined her self-esteem. "I wouldn't even look at people when I talked to them," she wrote. "I felt like such an outcast; when I spoke, it was with my hand covering my face." Today, she knows better and her tweet in January encouraging a fan to "never let that s*** stop you" went viral as the 'perfect response to skin-shaming trolls' everywhere.
'Emotional distress'
According to Dr Fady G Haddad, chief dermatologist at Shamma Clinic in Jumeirah, roughly 80-90 per cent of people will experience "at least one form" of acne in their lifetime. It's a condition he sees daily in his practice - and it is definitely women that outnumber men in seeking medical help for the condition, he notes. Although most prevalent during adolescence, the incidence of acne in adult women is currently on the rise - a phenomenon he attributes to multiple factors, including increased stress levels, excessive use of makeup and, of course, hormonal fluctuations.
"Without a doubt, acne brings with it a lot of emotional distress and can have a significant impact on quality of life," he says. "Adult female patients often report frustration, embarrassment and distress over their acne, and it tends to affect the self-esteem of older women more than younger ones." The media has only exacerbated the problem in the past, he adds.
"The power of media - whether online or on TV - has increased the standards [of what beauty should look like], so people often aspire to look just like the actors and public figures with impeccable skin that they see in showbiz," he says. "Imagine, I've even had influencers come in, who desired the smooth, glowing and 'blemish-less' skin of other influencers! I always have to remind them that there are such things as makeup and Photoshop."
So deeply entwined is this desire for flawless skin with patients' self-esteem that Dr Fady often finds himself playing the role of counsellor as well. "I try to explain that a woman who has duties at home or work, or both, cannot - and should not - try to compete with those who are less active, have more time to sleep and visit spas, and have house help. Is it not more positive to have acne with an active, interesting life rather than flawless skin with a dull or unproductive life?"
At times, the pep talk works; at times, some cases are so psychologically affected that Dr Fady suggests they consider seeking the help of a psychologist or life coach to help them regain their confidence. "Not everyone appreciates the advice though. Hence, the concept of pimple positivity comes in handy and should be reinforced."

FACING FACTS: (from left to right) Dr Fady G Haddad; Louisa Northcote; Nicole Rodrigues; Tehzeeb Huda
How a movement was born
It's not that the subject of acne acceptance has not been broached before. Celebrities like Emma Stone and Cameron Diaz have spoken out about their own struggles with the skin condition in interviews since 2012. But framed within the context of the current body positivity movement, offshoots like skin positivity and pimple positivity are finding much more traction than they have in the past - and they're being spearheaded by influencers, even ones haven't attained 'superstar' status yet.
Model Louisa Northcote started the #FreeThePimple movement last year as a pre-emptive move, prior to her appearance on Britain's Next Top Model. Tthe 21-year-old - who was schooled in Dubai but is currently based in London - suffers from painful, chronic acne that leaves her with red marks all over. The first episode of the reality TV modelling show required all the contestants to appear makeup-free - and it terrified the youngster to be baring her "biggest insecurity" to the world. Worried about the potentially nasty things people might say once they saw the episode, she decided to "take control of the narrative" by posting a makeup-free selfie on Instagram and narrating her story in her own words. And that's how #FreeThePimple was born.
What followed was an outpouring of support - not just from her 14,000-plus social media following, but from news and lifestyle publications around the world, including The Independent, Teen Vogue and Cosmopolitan. Louisa's story of how her acne stopped her from carrying out the most mundane or regular activities - whether it was going to the shop less than a minute away, meeting her friends or going to school - is one that continues to resonate with readers who have been taking to social media to openly post their own 'no filters' and 'no holds barred' stories.
One might argue that while an international star like Kendall Jenner can get away with flaunting or "rocking" a skin breakout, it would be quite another matter for a regular Jane to try pulling the same stunt - especially in professional and social settings, or in cosmopolitan cities where the heavily image-conscious reside. To this, Louisa - who has, in the past, been called everything from 'ugly' to 'crater face' and 'pizza face' - points to society's double standards: "Males who have acne don't wear makeup and wouldn't be asked to 'cover up' - so why should women?" she asks. "Skin shouldn't offend people."
That's not to say that Louisa - or fellow advocates - will never use makeup again or shy away from medication and treatments that may help them achieve clear skin. The fashion student still wears makeup - simply because she enjoys experimenting with different beauty products - but she no longer uses it as a "mask or armour". Thanks to a brand-new perspective, she's equally unafraid to step out makeup-free now. "Acne is just red marks on your skin - it isn't you. It also isn't forever. One day, it will all go away, and you will still be you - minus the red marks. That's why I keep telling acne sufferers they're still beautiful."
Shifting ideals
It's not just models that are calling for change. Of late, there seems to be a perceptible shift within the industry too, with purveyors of fashion and beauty reconsidering where they stand in light of all these movements. Nicole Rodrigues, founder of leading modelling agency Diva Models Dubai (www.divadubai.com), personally believes the current conversation is a great way to educate people about acceptance. "Unfortunately, with a lot of our dysfunctional childhoods, a lot of people walk around with poor self-esteem" she says. "Beauty lies in the eyes of the beholder, so it's vital to get the beholder to have an open non-judgmental outlook. And movements like these help people break away from unreal stigmas."
While they don't see many models with bad skin at the agency, Nicole says, even if they did, such issues would not be "much of a bother", as they can be easily fixed through makeup and Photoshop. "There have been cases where a model has turned up to a shoot with a bump or so - but it certainly wasn't the end of the world. It's ridiculous if aspiring models are being turned down or told to return only after they 'fix' their skin."
While the industry often faces a lot of flak for its portrayal of what the 'ideal' is, Nicole, a former model herself, points out that models are only portraying a "dream scenario - not the reality. It is part fantasy, and one needs to understand the difference between what is real and what is not."
The power of popularity
Given that social media has played such a substantial role in propagating unhealthy beauty standards, many feel it only stands to reason that the platform - and, by extension, the influencers it helped propel into the limelight - now has a responsibility to change the narrative and promote a better ideal.
Dubai-based marketing professional Tehzeeb Huda, who has been blogging at The Tezzy Files for nearly four years now, believes the current direction has been long overdue. "I know of quite a few influencers who have become so obsessed with filters and face morphing that you would barely recognise them in real life," she says. "But, from too fat to too skinny to too dark, there are now several movements that are reclaiming the norm - as opposed to the highly sanitised images we are fed through mass media. It's high time we fell in love with our faces - pimples, freckles, wrinkles et al."
But is it really social media that should bear the brunt of all the blame? "I would say it's us - people," reckons Tehzeeb. "Social media is only a tool, and we have exploited it so much that there is an entire market of apps out there that claim to recreate the more 'perfect' version of you. It is up to us to stop buying into this." It could start a whole new revolution if more bloggers and influencers got on board, she adds. "We call ourselves influencers, so it's our duty to influence positivity in all its forms."
And what does it mean when big names like Lena Dunham, Justin Bieber and Ruby Rose step in with their own #PimplePositivity posts? Everything. "Celebrities are able to drive the message home louder and clearer," she feels. "They're saying, 'We too are far from flawless, but it's all about the way you carry yourself. Confidence is true beauty.' We definitely need more of that message."

Busting acne stereotypes

There's no dearth of remedies and instructions that are thrown your way when you walk around with a face full of acne. Here, Dr Fady G Haddad sifts through some of the most popular ones.
Applying toothpaste on the zits will make them go away.
False. Toothpaste does not treat acne. Applying some on a pimple may dry it out, as some contain antiseptic agents and most contain sodium lauryl sulfate, which causes irritation and, therefore, dries out the pimple - but not all acne lesions may respond. It is safer to use a medicated cream rather than wasting time on something that may cause harm.
Eating chocolate causes acne.
False. Acne sufferers don't need to abstain from chocolate. Stress does make people indulge in eating more chocolate but it's likely the stress that's causing the breakouts - not the chocolate.
Touching acne will only make it spread.
False. However, one is advised not to excoriate or pick at the zits.
Makeup makes acne worse.
True. Makeup blocks pores and may exacerbate acne. But since many cannot do without makeup nowadays, there are non-comedogenic products for acne-prone skin that will block pores relatively less. This does not mean that such products are safe - just that they are the 'lesser evil' compared to oily or regular makeup.

Dealing with acne

> Wash your face gently, using soap-free cleansers. Avoid scrubs and harsh cleansers.
> Hydrate your skin using appropriate water-based moisturisers.
> Avoid excessive makeup, and choose non-comedogenic products if you do.
> Quit counting your pimples every day. Trust the treatment and that it is just a matter of time before the condition is brought under control.
- Courtesy: Dr Fady G Haddad
karen@khaleejtimes.com


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