Battle of the Dubai brunches: Argentina vs. Brazil

BETTER KNOWN FOR their intense football rivalry, there's no love lost when it comes to Argentina and Brazil meeting on the pitch, but today we're here to see which nation can cut it in the brunch stakes (or should that be steaks?). The grill-loving countries offer some of the highest quality meat on Earth and here in Dubai we have two 'prime' examples hailing from both lands. Asado at The Palace Downtown Dubai, has Argentina's eponymous BBQ cuisine covered and Toro Toro at the Grosvenor House, Dubai Marina, is all over Brazil's churrasco chow. But whose medium-rare rump will bring you to the yard for an all-in Friday afternoon brunch affair? Who puts on the best South American show? Will this sway our opinion on the time-old debates: Maradona or Pele? Tango or samba? Let's kick-off and find out who takes home the cup.
. Where: Asado, Palace Downtown Dubai
. Hours: 12.30pm to 3.30pm (Fri & Sat)
. Theme: Grape and Harvest rustic lunch
. Price: Dhs350 all-in food and beverages
What's in store: From the moment you step foot into the Patagonian country farmhouse-appointed dining room, your eyes are immediately drawn to the traditional asado (large cuts of meat hanging over exposed charcoal) burning by the parrillas (grills) of the open kitchen. It's quite a sight to behold. With old photos of proud gauchos hanging on the walls, almost willing you with their stares to move closer to sample the live presentation of their anachronistic food preparation, you find yourself immersed in the restaurant's delightfully intoxicating ambience.
From the theatre of the centrepiece to the methodical nature of the cooking stations and pastoral market stalls, Asado's brunch possesses an instant visual and olfactory impact, allowing the diner to begin to conjure up thoughts of different meal combinations before even sitting down. Head chef Josefinna Vallve's concoctions range from piquant to sweet to savoury; from seabass ceviche to beef chorizo; mini tacos to bife de lomo. It's all there for you to try and there genuinely isn't a dish we sampled that didn't hit the mark.
To begin with, a portion of mini tacos took the edge off that furious brunch hunger which results from waking up late on a Friday and having to skip breakfast. The freshly made dollop of guacamole and hint of spice in the sauce making them really zing. Then, quick as a flash, it was on to the meat. We couldn't resist the scent wafting over despite sitting yards away outside in view of the Burj Khalifa and Dubai Fountain. The chefs will do you up a plate so you can sample all their efforts. Alongside the beef cuts came grilled king prawns, sausages and some chicken. While the accoutrements were superb, it's the steak you will want from this eatery. You'd be hard-pressed to find a better rendition in Dubai given its succulence, flavour and size. A dessert of pancakes with dulce de leche (a milk-caramel spread) and free-flowing beverages throughout just made the experience one we wish to repeat over and over again.  

. Where: Toro Toro, Grosvenor House
. Hours: 12.30pm to 4pm (Friday)
. Theme: Lively pan-Latin brunch
. Price: Dhs525 all-in food and beverages
What's in store: In some ways your Friday afternoon at Toro Toro will feel like a typical brunch and, in other ways, completely atypical. This dichotomy stems from the familiar party atmosphere available at many of Dubai's establishments, although here, instead of regular buffet dining, the superior service will take care of your every whim, mostly unprompted. In fact, by the time they're done with you, you'll be turning over your specialised drinks mat from the green side signaling 'please feed me more', to the halting red - an action of which we never thought ourselves capable. After being escorted to our table in the sleek modern Latin eatery-cum-club, welcome beverage in hand, we were temporarily left to our own devices. A central table with a few nibbles to stave off the aforementioned pre-brunch hunger is the first port of call. Here lay the only disappointment of the day. It mainly consisted of ceviche, which was well-prepared although not quite satisfying enough for a group wishing to get stuck in.
We should, however, hang our heads in shame at the short-sighted nature of our minor disgruntlement. Because soon after came the tidal wave. Tuna tataki, crispy prawns and cachapas (corn pancakes) arrived with the prawns proving particularly popular. Then. the real food. The serving staff moved through the dining room with colossal amounts of meat on skewers (churrasco), forking off portions to the grateful masses, by this point well into the fiesta or festa spirit. Beef tenderloin cubes, marinated chicken, the rodizio was rampant and delicious. Like the frog who sits in increasingly warming water, not realising it's about to meet an uncomfortable end, we continued to accept everything on offer until a fellow guest felt they were actually going to burst. Thankfully the only explosion which transpired was, after a long rest, the restaurant's special dessert, La Bomba, or a chocolate sphere filled with chocolate mousse and candy which is thrown on a plastic sheet on the table and devoured in situ. Muito bom!

THE RESULTS
Taking everything into account it's a really tight call. If this were a football match we'd have gone to penalties and, in shoot-out terms, we're into sudden death. For service we have to give it to Toro Toro, but for value for money, Asado cannot be matched. The atmosphere score is a dead heat because both provide different but equally great times. The chilled-out Asado has the more interesting décor and does actually feature a live band, but it's the terrace view which impresses. Toro Toro has a carnival vibe from which you cannot escape and the regular clientele to match. So, we guess it comes down to the food. Like we said, we're onto the eighth spot kick and it's neck and neck here. Two inches one way and the goalie will save it. Gah, Asado takes it by a hair. That menu secures the crown by a whisker. For the overall price and quality it creates a worthy South American treat.  
david@khaleejtimes.com           

• Food and Dining