The shape of things to come

It began in Fall/Winter 2009: the more tapered pant leg, the plethora of jacket lengths, the focus on a more casual, cool aesthetic. There was also the emphasis on necklines, higher waistbands and more ornate waistband details.

By Stephanie Rivers

Published: Fri 18 Dec 2009, 10:25 PM

Last updated: Thu 2 Apr 2015, 8:17 AM

Spring forward to S/S 2010 and it is a more nuanced ideal built on that same aesthetic. The suiting choices fit closer to the body, and pants have a rock ‘n’ roll edge with a skinny jean effect.

Blazers are worn with shirting sans ties; with light-as-a-feather cashmere pullovers; in the single-breasted and double-breasted variety. The new suit offers the wearer a casual Friday work wardrobe minus the khakis and navy blazers, thank goodness. The S/S 2010 man has a strong sense of what he wants to wear and a choice of fabrications and styles.

Versace seduced with her travel, Lawrence of Arabia aesthetic in rich creams, whites and sand colours. Donatella varied jacket lengths and added tunic tops, lending a diaphanous feel and flow to the overall look. What else would Lawrence wear if not fabric that moves and breathes?

Bottega Veneta gave their man a modern English take on relaxed cool. Luxurious fabrics for winter and bright, sherbert hues for spring, with a smattering of floral/vine patterns — all with a focus on necklines and jackets. The BV man could be a banker, trader or in advertising — there was something for everyone.

Louis Vuitton offered their gents a combination of silhouettes, a sportier flare and a modern take on traditional tailoring in Fall/Winter 2010.

For S/S 2010, the sporty aesthetic continued but brightened up with tie-dye, varied short lengths and pullover V-neck sweaters. A New York City man meets Parisian cool.

All that was missing was artistic director Marc Jacob’s signature skort.

Thom Browne gave his man an alpine spin for F/W 2009. There were ski hats, double-breasted belted overcoats, suit jackets worn with shorts and calf-high socks, wheat-coloured overalls worn over a suit jacket that gave a nod to uniforms American mechanics might wear, as well as shrunken pant lengths that stop right at the ankle, a Browne signature.

S/S 2010 gave a different take on ‘The Man in the Grey Flannel Suit’ genre with exaggerated proportions, knitwear, shrunken rain ponchos, short shorts bordering on athletic support wear, in-your-face prints, floor-length silk ponchos, and purposely shortened jacket sleeves.

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