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Greek odyssey

The same could be said of Naples’ Mediterranean neighbour Athens, although any death would not be self-inflicted - more likely a result of the pollution or an out-of-control taxi driver. Athens, despite its history, is a place that’s hard to love and in truth, once you have seen the main sights (the Acropolis, the Ancient Agora and Syntagma Square), you will want to take the advice of the more honest locals and head for the islands.

You see, to really enjoy Greece, you will have to leave the capital behind and take one of the many ferry services out to the islands (there are more than 6,000 of them). As you watch Athens’ yellow wall of smog disappear into the distance and the sky turn brilliant blue, you will not only be able to breathe without inhaling a lungful of exhaust fumes, but you will appreciate why Greece is so popular (clue: it’s not the ruins).

Greece’s islands are so numerous that it is impossible to begin to describe even a small percentage of them (never mind actually visit them), so the smart traveller will stick to two or three and not island-hop like a madman. For rushinganywheredefeatsthepurposeofGreece - outside of the mainland, the pace is laidback, and travel plans should follow suit. For newbies to Greece, head to the Cyclades Islands, numbering around 220, most of which are uninhabited, and result in a rock-strewn horizon as you sail towards your destination.

If you want to start your trip off on a hedonistic tip, head first to Mykonos, a refuge for Europe’s party set for decades and, despite its occasional descent into pretentiousness, is still the place to let loose. The five windmills that come into view as you arrive are as iconic as the gyros that the streetside stalls serve. The l town’s winding narrow lanes - built that way to protect the original population from ma rauding pirates - are now home to countless chic bars and upscale restaurants. Mykonos l is resolutely cosmopolitan and despite its oc casionally Eurotrash clientele usually errs on the side of good taste. Little Venice, an area of the town that edges over the waterfront is the perfect place to enjoy a sundowner or an early , morning coffee. The more active-minded can hire bikes and cycle out of the town and across the sun-baked countryside. But most are con tent to while away the days, reading, sipping frappes and planning the evening’s revellery.

If you want a hotel to match the glamour on show once the sun sets, head to the Bill & Coo hotel (www.bill-coo-hotel.com), which manages to combine a minimalist design ethos with traditional Greek architecture (as well as the obligatory sunset views).

If Mykonos is all chic hedonism, then Santorini is its laidback cousin. Its stark volcanic coastline plunges into the sea and results in the island’s famous black sand beaches. Santorini has a reputation of being the most romantic of the Greek islands and it’s easy to see why. It’s quiet, with none of the nightlife you find on many of the other islands, and the entire place seems to be frequented by love-struck couples.

Fira, the main town, is stunning, perched dramatically over the cliff edge; from out to sea, the town looks like a thick layer of icing atop a volcanic rock cake.

Equally enchanting is Oia, 12km north of Fira. If you arrive by ferry, take advantage of the town’s unique taxi service - a fleet of ancient donkeys, which will take you and your belongings up the rather steep steps to the town centre. Oia’s streets are so narrow and winding and its whitewashed houses so tightly packed, that you are never quite sure where you are.

This disorientation is rather pleasant how ever, given the abundance of local tavernas and coffee shops, and the occasional glimpse of the shining blue sea in the distance. The afternoons in Oia go slowly; the natives sit out the heat indoors while the occasional sweating tourist ambles by. Once the sun begins to sink in the late afternoon, daily life starts up again, with the locals heading to the tavernas and the tourists heading to the waterfront.

Get a table overlooking the beautiful Amouthi Bay, with its black pebble beach and bobbing fishing boats. As darkness falls, the waterfront is lit up with candles, and the sound of the waves lapping the shore provides the perfect soundtrack for a dinner for two. For accommodation to match the views, try Ikies (www.ikies.com), which is a collection of restored local houses that look out onto the bay. The views are spectacular, and even if they don’t rekindle romance with your significant other, you will at least fall in love with Santorini.

EMAIL : conor@khaleejtimes.com

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