Bridging the great divide

The Renaissance was a cultural movement encompassing profound intellectual progress as well as huge leaps in art and philosophy. Originating in Italy, the Renaissance has been celebrated for its invaluable contribution to classical and modern schools of thought alike.

By Riaz Naqvi

Published: Fri 30 Mar 2012, 9:02 PM

Last updated: Fri 3 Apr 2015, 12:34 AM

One aspect of the movement that is perhaps less appreciated is its impact on trade and economies. And few individuals are better informed on the subject than jewellery stylist Dr Maria Loretta De Toni.

Armed with a PhD in Foreign Languages, Literatures and Cultures and a keen understanding of international trade, Dr Maria asked herself: “How can I combine culture and business acumen to help grow economies?” It was this question that eventually led her to craft her current vision. “I want to create a new economic-cultural renaissance between the East and the West,” she explains.

“In the days of the Renaissance, what made the artworks coming out of Italy so powerful were the robust trade connections with the Middle East and the Far East between the years 1000 -1500.”

In the 2008 ‘Luxury through an Oriental Eye’ exhibition, which Dr Maria curated in Italy, she demonstrated how elements of Arab and Oriental art could be found in Italian artifacts, architecture and jewels. “Much of Venetian art took inspiration from Islamic design techniques: an example of this being the hammering of gold and bronze to make intricate designs with wire.”

As a designer, Dr Maria prizes an approach of study and research before putting pencil to paper and believes that design in all products should be a positive reflection of a country’s values. “What made the arts and literature of the Renaissance so lasting was a certain kind of attention to detail,” she says.

A common theme found in her pieces is a butterfly in the clasp. According to her, it represents evolution. “The butterfly starts out as a caterpillar, slow and with limited mobility. Only after it goes through a pupa stage does it emerge as a butterfly.”

She sees a metaphor here for human existence. “The butterfly is a beautiful, free creature. Its life may be short, but it is one of wonder. People can become butterflies too; if they could emerge from their pupa, they can have a profound impact on the world around them.”

Spending her time between her hometown of Vicenza and Dubai, Dr Maria is busy ‘building her bridge’. Her latest collection was displayed last December at the Al Nahda East & West Jewellery Renaissance in Dubai, and featured a gold pendant representing the seven emirates of the UAE, in celebration of 40 years of unity.

With only 100 pieces of the pendant available, five per cent of funds received will be invested in education for Palestinian youth. Dr Maria’s collection can be seen at the Prima Gold showrooms in Burjuman and the Burj Al Arab.

“In an age of mass production, the focus on detail and quality has taken a backseat to economies of scale,” she states. “We need to re-study our practices, and create things which act as ‘speaking books’ of our nation’s heritage.”

riaznaqvi@khaleejtimes.com