Bringing Beach Chic to Town

Jumeirah Beach Hotel's Cove Beach definitely takes 'beach chic' to all new heights.

With the weather being the way it is, using the word 'hot' is a laughable understatement. Suffice it to say that venturing outdoors is only for the bravest of the brave, and the majority of us would gladly eschew the great outdoors for our air-conditioned haunts. But for those who thought it time to bid farewell to the beaches, there's still a way to take in the best of Dubai's shorelines, while nestled in comfort and style.
Jumeirah Beach Hotel's Cove Beach definitely takes 'beach chic' to all new heights. My lunch partner and I took a while to find the place (point to note, it is not within the hotel, but right next to it), and we did have to climb aboard a hotel golf cart at one point to get there. But once there, all thoughts of the afternoon heat went far, far away.
The ambience is pretty awe-inspiring; enter and you'll be amazed by the chic, modern interiors decked up in shades of pristine off-whites and light greys. At the entrance stands a larger-than-life bronze statue overlooking the restaurant (popularly called the 'Cove Man', our server later informed us), and to the left, a breathtaking beach view and plenty of natural light streaming in through a glass wall.
The next thing about Cove Beach that catches your eye is the outdoor seating area: comfy wicker furniture on the sand, plenty of space for live music performances, and - hold on to your hats - a swimming pool, set in a private beach, for diners only. While swimming may not be the most advisable activity after a meal, a dip in the pool is a tempting option to beat the heat. My dining companion and I chose to sit indoors, by the glass wall and were rewarded with a majestic view of the Burj al Arab. Not a bad way to start a meal.
Attempting to keep our hydration levels up, we ordered mocktails first, and the service was pretty prompt. My Sugar Crave came out tasting almost exactly like the run-of-the-mill orange juice and did little to impress, but my friend's choice of Little Sunshine - a mix of ambrosia tea, passion fruit and raspberry purée - took us by surprise. Not only was it downright refreshing, the drink was topped with ice, berries and an impressive 'ice bowl'. Almost unseen, that level of dedication and presentation for a mocktail.
Cove Beach prides itself on its fine selection of meat and fresh seafood - cuisine from the south of France and Italy. On our waiter's recommendation, we opted for the Salmon Carpaccio and the Burrata, for starters, and were quite satisfied. Both dishes came out chilled, light and deliciously fresh - pretty great choices for a summer meal.
The mains were a bit trickier to order - too many good options. We finally settled on the Roasted Marinated Baby Chicken and Dover Sole "Meunière", and couldn't resist adding a dish of Grilled Jumbo Prawns with Lobster Saffron Butter to share. When it comes to seafood, freshness is paramount, and the latter was definitely a good idea - the jumbo prawns were subtly, but succulently, flavoured and grilled to perfection. The chicken, marinated with a tangy mix of lemon and ginger and served with chicken jus, was pretty tasty as well, but the Dover sole "Meunière" was a bit saltier than we would have liked, and its 'lemony' taste overpowered the flavour of the sole fish.
Enjoying the imposing view of the Burj al Arab and the heady sunlight pouring in through the glass wall, we couldn't resist opting for some cold stuff for dessert. My Lemon Basil Meringue Tart was tangy and delightful, but felt a tad heavy after the meal. On the other hand, my friend's order of Homemade Strawberry Ice-cream was absolutely divine - more sorbet-like, and a deep shade of red; you could taste the strawberries in every spoonful. Again, hats off to the presentation, which made the dessert almost too pretty to eat.
The setting and interiors of Cove Beach is just plain breathtaking, and the indoors, done up primarily in white, gives the restaurant a chic, relaxed feel. Add to it the light, fresh menu and the azure views outside - and you got yourself a pretty perfect hangout for the summer.
janice@khaleejtimes.com

• Food and Dining