Taking the Hijab to New Heights

Janice Rodrigues gets into conversation with UAE bloggers about the true meaning of conservative fashion, as well as with Mariah Idrissi - the H&M model behind the viral photo that got the world talking

Fashion is a force to be reckoned with. It is fierce, every-evolving, outrageous, intimate, bold and minimal. But most importantly, fashion is for everyone. These are the words we are told time and time again by our parents, elders, peers, the media. the list goes on. But just as we know that fashion is meant to be an extension of our personality, we also know that the safest way to be fashionable is by sticking close to the pack. Being stylish and different, but not too different, lest we attract attention to ourselves. And in a world where standing out is akin to a taboo, sometimes, women wearing hijabs bear the brunt of this negative attention in some parts of the globe.

But there's good news: change is coming. A few months ago, H&M released an image of Mariah Idrissi, a Muslim model who is the first to be seen donning the hijab in an H&M campaign, for their 'Close the Loop' recycling initiative, and the world rejoiced. The picture went viral on social media, with many chiming in to voice their approval. As a lifestyle blogger on the website Muslim Girl stated, "In a simple and quiet way she (Mariah) made others look at a Muslim women without fear or contempt, but with a healthy curiosity. Mariah opened a conversation that has always been strained."
So what does the now world-famous, H&M model have to say about the sudden, and bright, spotlight that's shining upon her? "That campaign changed everything," accepts Mariah Idrissi, speaking via telephone from London. "To be honest, I don't think anyone really knew the reaction was going to be this huge - but I'm happy that it was."
Half Moroccan and half Pakistani, Mariah has lived her entire life in London, and was surprised when she was contacted by H&M after a friend, who was a casting director, sent them a picture of her. Humble and down-to-earth, the 23-year-old English literature graduate confesses that she never had a career in modelling on her mind. Instead, she was content to focus on her business - a beauty salon she had started with her cousin.
"Yes, the campaign was a turning point," Mariah continues. "I hardly get time to work at the salon now, because things have gotten so busy. All my plans have changed. I'm trying to really get into the fashion industry, because in a way, I want to make the hijab more mainstream and acceptable."
Mariah went ahead with the campaign with the full blessings of her family - her parents and two younger brothers - who were all very supportive. However, the real challenge in getting into the cutthroat world of fashion is that the concept of a hijabi model is still relatively unheard of.
"The concept does not really exist," Mariah explains. "It is something that is completely new. There are loads of women who do it, but they can only be seen in the Muslim fashion industry. It is not something that is mainstream. However, most people reacted very positively to the image. There was a bit of negativity from people who believed that it wasn't proper for a woman wearing a hijab to model, but everyone has an opinion, and everyone's opinion of modesty is different."
But no matter the difficulties, the London-based beauty has kept her eye on the ball. "I want to improve things for women who wear the veil. Even today, some airlines do not hire women who wear hijabs. A lot of other employers do the same. The fashion industry is huge, and when more people start seeing the veil in it, there will be an increase in understanding and acceptance across countries. That's my aim. That's what I'm trying to achieve through modelling."
She may be only 23 years old, but it is obvious Mariah has started a ripple effect, by getting the world talking about how conservative fashion is not just about style; it's also about acceptance in a multi-cultural world. She also represents a booming need for more hijabi trends and conservative fashion for Muslim girls, whose needs have largely been ignored by big western brands until now.   
"Just because you do not wear the hijab does not mean you are a modest person," the fashionista adds. "Just like you do not need to wear the hijab to be modest. Make sure that your intentions are always good and pure, with whatever you do in life. Real fashion is about expressing your personality and who you are. It is a pity that so many people choose to dress alike. We should all aim to be more different."

UAE FASHION BLOGGERS TALK MODEST STYLE
Dee Mohamud
Blog: streetstylesavvy.com  
Dee, like Mariah, is also 23 years old, but she has been making  her own waves in Dubai's blogging scene with her unique sense of style for some time now. And while she has more than enough fans (at last count, she had an Instagram following of 12.4K), what most people don't know is that Dee is also a hard-working HR professional, who manages her blog in her spare time.

"I'm really proud of the blog because I never expected it to reach the level it did," the young fashionista confesses. "I started it a year and a half ago and had zero expectations. Then I started going to events and people seemed to love my style because I'm always mixing modest wear with modern, western clothing. I try to keep my style trendy, but it's always me. I'm also bit if a perfectionist."
Originally hailing from Somalia, Dee was born and raised in Dubai, and never one to sit still. She started working at the age of 17, trying out a series of part-times jobs before she started working in HR for an investment management company. But she also confesses that she has always had an interest in fashion, and enjoyed trying out different combinations and looking up bloggers and youtubers. Although difficult to combine work and blogging, Dee loves every bit of it. "I think the biggest challenge is all the coordinating. Most people assume that bloggers don't work and figuring out a suitable timing can be crazy. I don't always get a lot of time to rest. I'm either at work or I'm trying out things for my blog."
But she's also the first to admit that she loves the challenge. "It's hard work, but it is also so much fun. My blog is a combination of my passion and my hobby. A hobby, because I absolutely love fashion, photography and creating content. And at the same time it's been a dream to become a stylist and this is my way of working with brands and building a portfolio that will help me in the future."
Mariah Idrissi
I think her style is amazing. I think the campaign was really cool because it helps people see that Muslim girls are like everyone else. To be honest, we need more role models like her because people don't associate modesty with fashion. But the thing is, all women love to dress, we love beautiful things and we take fashion seriously. Just like there are role models for women in literature and other industries, there should be role models for them in fashion.
On Conservative Fashion
Fashion is something that is deeply personal. It is a representation of what you find beautiful and I don't think it necessarily needs to be a certain way. It should be whatever people want it to be. I think that if a person wants to be conservative, that makes their style unique. I've noticed a lot of tourists come to the UAE and buy abayas because there is a simple beauty in it. Abayas really are beautiful and elegant.
On Finding Your Sense Of Style
I think everyone should dress according to his or her body type. Experiment with what looks best on you, and don't care too much about other people's opinions. When I dress up, I try not to care about what other people say. People are always going to have an opinion, and it is just the way you react to them that matters. As long as you're happy with what you are wearing, just go with it, because the most important opinion that should matter is your own.

Mara Mostafa
Blog: maramostafa.com 
Popular lifestyle blogger Mara Mostafa, started writing about five years ago because, in her words, she needed an outlet to talk about all the things she is passionate about. A mother of three, Mara was born to an Emirati father and English mother, and lived her entire life in the UAE, before moving to Bahrain after getting married. Now blogging from both Dubai and Bahrain, in between which she constantly travels, her blog contains everything from insights on family life to health, but it is fashion that has always held a special place in her heart. 
"I've always been interested in fashion; for as long as I can remember," Mara explains. "Memories of going through my mother's closet and having her tell me the story of each garment is what gave birth to my passion for vintage fashion and clothing."
The fashionable mum believes that style should be something that is fun, easy, expressive and comfortable. She also tries to highlight modest fashion because she believes that it is something that has been ignored for a long time. "I was really happy to see Mariah Idrissi in the new campaign because there are so many who can relate to her," she says, while on the subject. "Growing up, I felt like there was this huge gap -there was no one in TV or in magazines that I could relate to. I'm thrilled this is changing."
On The Future of Conservative Fashion
I hope to see a lot more brands targeting modest fashion. Not only do covered girls want fashion that is catered to them, there are other women who opt to dress modestly as opposed to what models on the runway are presenting.
Advice For Women Who Love Wearing The Hijab
Embrace your hijab! It is a beautiful thing that is for your benefit. Look for inspiration online, search for modest fashion bloggers and see how they put outfits together. You can always wear what works best with your body.
On Fashion
The concept of fashion is not only what the western world perceives it to be. It's a way of life. Whatever a person's theology, beliefs, interests, passions, culture and values, it is naturally reflected in everything they do and everything they wear. Wearing a hijab means that I do dress conservatively, but that doesn't stop me from looking presentable and fashionable. Looking my best not only reflects my own confidence, but projects being a hijabi in a positive light. You can be both without compromising one over the other.

 Dr Deanna Khalil
Blog: abayaaddict.com
When Deanna Khalil is not managing the launch of her clothing line, Abaya Addict, and writing blog posts for the website, she is a busy mum - and doctor. That's right. The Palestinian-Italian, who grew up in the USA is an Optometrist in Dubai and balances three careers, as she calls it - optometry, motherhood and design. And although she admits that it is not always easy, it is something she loves and is manageable because of the support she has received from her husband - and a strict schedule. 
"Life isn't always perfect," the designer and blogger admits. "I can't give everything my 100 per cent, all the time, as I once would have done. But over the years, I have learned not to beat myself up over the little things. I firmly believe that family should always come first. When it comes to my career, I've learned to let go of the reins a little and set realistic goals so that I don't find myself overwhelmed or disappointed. But you won't find me with any regrets because nothing can compare to the happiness that comes from feeling like a good wife, mum and businesswoman."
So how did the multi-tasking mum get into Dubai's fashion scene?  Well, it all started with her launching her own brand, Abaya Addict. "When I created a Facebook page and reached out to my friends, I was shocked to discover that Abaya Addict went viral almost overnight. I found that people were really interested in the way I blended my personal tastes with modest looks. With so many new followers, I started getting into blogging to keep everyone engaged and interested in what was going on in my world. It also provided me the opportunity to speak directly to my customers and receive instant feedback on new items I was designing." 
Today, she is a trendsetter in the conservative fashion industry and is gearing up to take it to a whole new level. "In a world where a majority of the mainstream models strut uncovered, I am happy to see more women in hijabs as they serve as a role models for women of all religions and ethnicities. These women are demonstrating that the concept of 'less is more' is not necessarily true. It gives me hope that, as my daughter grows up, she will have Muslimah role models she can relate to. And even outside the field of fashion, it is exciting to see successful Muslim women making advancements in fields around the world."
On Fashion  
Fashion is our gateway to the world.  It's how we step out everyday and say, "this is me." Fashion can't be limited to the design, shape, texture or colours that make up clothing; it is ultimately about the woman who takes these features, infuses her own personal touch and turns it into her signature style.
On The Abaya
The abaya has shifted from a traditional black cloth into today's multi-dimensional modest wear. Modern day abayas have a new agenda. They are no longer quiet and subdued. With new and exciting designs, playful textures and vibrant colours - the abaya is now a fashion statement. The women who wear abayas have embraced these changes and wear it with the aim of being modest without having to compromise on personal style.
On The Future On Conservative Fashion
I hope to see more creative options in modest wear for women who want to stay fierce, but covered. There is a lot of room for improvement - from formal wear to sportswear. This is where I am putting most of my efforts these days - into giving Muslim women what they need - functional, high quality clothing choices.
Advice For Women Who Love The Abaya
The world is now watching and people are taking notice of the beauty of covering up. This is our opportunity to put our best faces forward and our fiercest looks on! And I want to remind Muslim women that they shouldn't have to compromise on who they are in order to be noticed. Stay true to yourself - you're all unique and the hijab only makes you more interesting.
janice@khaleejtimes.com

• Editor's Picks