Buenos Aires: A Latin American city with a European soul

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Buenos Aires: A Latin American city with a European  soul

The land of tango, fiestas and dulce de leche has a whole lot to offer. David Light shares his insights on what to do and see when you're visiting the beautiful capital of Argentina

By David Light

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Published: Thu 8 Dec 2016, 11:00 PM

Last updated: Wed 21 Dec 2016, 3:10 PM

Imagine a strong Italian population base; add a sprinkle of German culture, a smidge of British influence, put them in Paris and get them to speak Spanish - et voila, you've got an (admittedly terribly simplistic) overview of the incredible Buenos Aires. Let us elaborate. The architecture in the town centre was largely built to mimic the French capital. Many of BA's residents, as a result of a proud Italian and Iberian heritage, resemble Sicilians or Milanese whilst speaking a language invented in Spain. To further add to the melting pot, schoolchildren can be found walking down Billinghurst Street, for example, in Scottish uniforms, all while munching Germanic pastries for breakfast.  
Despite Argentina being the second largest country in Latin America, perhaps the most surprising aspect of a visit is its palpable European history, which continues to influence the city to this day. 
It's no coincidence that a popular local saying goes "Los Argentinos descienden de los barcos" or "Argentineans descend from the ships" as a result of it being second only to the United States in 19th and 20th century in immigration figures. Buenos Aires was the epicentre of that mass migration and it so bears the hallmarks of an experiment in European integration. And as the future of the actual European Union unfortunately looks precarious, Argentina's inadvertent attempt at something similar is an unparalleled success. What you will discover in Buenos Aires is a modern conurbation brimming with character and spirit from its history, language, culture and cuisine, which for a tourist, is as intoxicating as it is exciting.   
Buenos Aires' effervescence is immediately apparent from the get-go. After a very long-haul flight from Dubai (a direct Emirates Airlines route takes just over 19 hours with a plane-confined refuel stop in Rio De Janeiro, while a preferred stop off and stretch of the legs in Heathrow, London, with British Airways will set you back 24 hours) you'll want nothing more than to settle in for the day/night. After all, the seven-hour time difference is enough to leave anyone reeling. But taking that prepaid Taxi Ezeiza from the airport to hostel, hotel or Airbnb destination (most likely in the Palermo or Recoletta districts) to get some much-needed sleep isn't easy - the beat on the street won't allow you.  
When we arrived, a friendly street demonstration complete with drums, whistles and fiesta atmosphere was in full swing and asked us to join in. So we did. We're still not sure what it was in aid of; yet suffice to say we fought for our right to party. This typical welcoming ambience that envelops the city can be found at every turn, so here's our top picks and advice on what to do and see whilst you explore Buenos Aires.
 
WHERE TO GO
The city centre is chock-full of sites and monuments, which, without a guide, can appear daunting. On day one, a three-hour free walking tour was organised in order to tick a few sites off  our list of things to see. Logging onto the aptly named buenosairesfreewalks.com, a meeting point and time was found - 3pm at the National Congress. What greeted us was around 60 or so like-minded visitors and two guides: one for the Spanish speakers and one for English. The tour took in must-visit locations such as the Pink House where Evita Peron would address her adoring crowds, the Palacio Barolo - a building designed in accordance with the cosmology found in Dante's Divine Comedy, the country's premiere tango school and much, much more. You get to meet people, get informed and get some exercise, all for free. It's perfect. 
. San Telmo 
The oldest neighbourhood in Buenos Aires, up until a decade ago the barrio of San Telmo used to be the place to stay. Now a bit out of the way when it comes to all the action, Sunday is the best time to visit this market square of old-world charm. Antiques, traditional restaurants and churches adorned with frescos of Argentina's most renowned export after dulce de leche: Pope Francis, make up the surroundings. We thought the tango shows in some of the local hostelries were  worth the trip alone. The home of tango, a visit to Buenos Aires isn't complete without a live performance.  
. Puerto Madero
This modern gentrification of the Marina district is very similar to what has occurred across Europe. Old stores and factories have been rejuvenated with the addition of glass walls and exposed ironwork, designer coffee shops and boutique burger bars. This is a great place to walk around if the weather is warm. It's also home to higher-end hotels. 
. La Boca
Perhaps one of the most famous districts, resulting from the resident Boca Juniors football team, Argentina's most famous club, this impoverished city within a city has undergone a transformation. It is now a thriving art hub, with wall murals and galleries being prime draws. 
ENTERTAINMENT
. Jazz clubs are abundant across town, serving up fine music, fine food (we struggled to find a place that didn't serve stellar fare) and a fine atmosphere. Sit at a small table in a darkened corner and watch the professionals play you into the wee hours of the morning. Boris Club De Jazz in Palermo was a particular favourite.
. As with any major city, nightlife is key. One element to get used to, however, is that many of the venues don't get busy till 2am.that's right, everything begins at 2am and goes on until 7 or so in the morning, so don't peak too soon. There are simply too many clubs to choose from, but a standout one for tourists and locals alike is Rosebar in Palermo. 
. Two-times World Cup winners, Argentina is a country of football fanatics and we can't advise you highly enough to go see a game. River and Boca are favourites with stadiums often selling out, so it may be tricky. We chose to watch a plucky side called Banfield take on San Lorenzo in a tricky cup tie and win. Tickets were easy to acquire and there wasn't a huge crowd to contend with. You can try and sort everything out yourself or allow football specialist tourist company bsas4u.com to do the nitty gritty. 
GETTING AROUND
. Public transport is regular, efficient and cheap. The bus system takes some getting used to but the subway is simple and costs less than a dirham a journey. You can also get anywhere in the city centre for less than Dhs20 by taxi. Alternatively, the city's grid-style streets make walking one of the best options. You cannot get lost. 
FOOD
. Local specialities include empanadas (meat-filled pastries), chorizo sandwiches and the ubiquitous caramel-like dulce de leche, which is found in every dessert. That being said, the food upon which you will overdose in Buenos Aires will no doubt be steak. An 'asado' or barbeque dinner is a top three priority here. As with the clubs, there are too many recommendations, but a standout candidate was Don Julio in Palermo.  Be sure to check it out. 
david@khaleejtimes.com
 


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