I first tasted crab many years ago in Mannar, a small coastal town in western Sri Lanka, which was then mostly out of bounds because of a raging ethnic war.

It was an unforgettable journey, as we had to drive around blown up bridges and some very empty roads lined with machine gun-toting soldiers and artillery guns hidden in the brush.

The Sri Lankan military held Mannar and we had taken a detour on our way to Colombo from northern areas that the government forces had just won back from the Tamil Tiger rebels.

The caretaker at the decrepit guest house near the sea where we spent the night, apologised for not having chicken and instead offered to cook us some freshly caught crabs. I had stayed away from shellfish of all kinds after once breaking out in rashes following a meal of prawn noodles in what was then Bombay.

That night, however, I fell in love with Sri Lankan crab. Since then it’s never been about whether a crab dish is good or bad, it’s always about which one is better. What matters is where the crab comes from. After trying out crustaceans from Indonesia, Vietnam, Africa, The Philippines, India, Bangladesh, Myanmar and even Alaska, my vote is for my first love — the crabs from Sri Lanka. They are big and juicy and a nutcracker’s dream. Digging into the hard claws to pull out soft, snowy white meat is always a delight, equalled by very few other food experiences.

Cutlery has no place on the table; bare hands are good enough, as the juices need to be licked off the fingers once the process of extracting the meat is over. Eating crabs can be frustrating at times, but fun nonetheless, if only for their ability to excite the taste buds.

Sri Lankans take their crab seriously and Sri Lankan crabs are taken seriously all over the world.

Crabs and chillies always go hand in hand. So whatever the cuisine be, especially in Asia, crab preparations are likely to be hot and spicy. In Singapore, one of the most ordered dishes at the food courts and restaurants is the massive Sri Lankan crab laced with vast amounts of red chilli paste or black pepper. You can see them pacing slowly in water tanks and pick out the one that looks the most appetising. Sweaty foreheads and cloudy glasses merge with the steaming crab, as willing fingers polish off the morsels that drop onto your plate.

In Dubai, resident Sri Lankans suggest you go to Curry Leaf in Satwa or Chef Lanka at the Panorama Hotel in Karama to enjoy the spicy crabs.

Several versions of the Indian crab cooked in Manglorean and Goanese styles are also available elsewhere and can be just as hot. Restaurants suggested by colleagues include the Coconut Grove at Rydges Plaza in Satwa and Casa Goa at the Palm Beach Rotana Hotel in Bur Dubai.

Crabs come in various shapes and sizes and can have red or black, fat or thin claws and there are more than 4,000 varieties. But the Sri Lankan crab makes for the grandest meal of the lot of them. So, get those nutcrackers out and make sure the apron is in place when you sit down to dig out the meat.

(Rahul knows its important 
to start your day with a good meal. Write to him at rahul
@khaleejtimes.com)