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Restaurant Review



6 November 2009

When a hotheaded Italian horse racing legend and a superstar chef get together you expect there to be fireworks — and that’s what you get at Frankie’s Italian Bar and Grill, but of the culinary kind.

The diminutive Frankie Dettori and housewives’ favourite Marco Pierre White, don’t lend their names to any old eatery. No, these two have  genuine star power, so anything less than five-star would be a no-no. Obviously, the star men can not be expected to be on hand all day and all night, whipping up delicious creations for the scores of tourists and residents who pour through their restaurant’s doors.

The man intrusted with the task of keeping their names, and their business, as appealing as freshly made pizza is head chef Maurizio Bosetti. The Italian takes great pride in his job. He can be seen prowling about the restaurant, his eyes darting around the diners and the kitchen, keen to make sure that every meal is prepared perfectly and enjoyed fully.

On the evening my date and I ventured the short distance from my apartment to Frankie’s, Signore Bosetti was keen to point out the highlights of a newly-created menu. For starters, he excitedly directed us towards the valtellina beef served with rocket salad, ginger mousse and shaved romano cheese and the cold, thin slices of roasted pink veal, served with salsa, pantelleria capers, shaved parmesan  and celery salad.

My date made short work of the beef and raved about the ginger mousse so much that I had to steal a taste. She wasn’t wrong in her high praise. My veal starter initially seemed like a poor choice in comparison, but the thinly sliced meat was delicious and delicate and complemented by the salsa.

Next up was the homemade duck ravioli served with thyme sauce and smoked ricotta. This was one dish that caught my eye straight away. I’m a big fan of pasta, and even though I eat kilos of the stuff at home, I always opt for it in restaurants. Maybe it’s my limited cooking skills, but it always tastes better than my own attempts, and this ravioli was no exception. The four individual pockets were filled with rich, soft meat. They were so good in fact, I would have happily finished the meal with another helping. But Bosetti wasn’t letting us off that easily.

For the mains, he sent over the Milanese style veal chop, served with potato wedges and tomato gratin filled with garlic spinach. The flat slab of bread crumb covered meat was very tasty but had too much of a fried taste for my liking, which made it stand out from the rest of the dishes I’d enjoyed.

My date was served the grilled black angus tenderloin served with leek and potato cake, garlic spinach, seared foie gras and red wine sauce. The meat was cooked to perfection. I was jealous.

For the final furlong, we were served amaretti, classic and morello cherry tiramisu. The trio of tiny Italian desserts each had a unique taste, but blended together wonderfully.

With Bosetti in the saddle, Mr Dettori and Mr White have clearly backed the right horse.

What we liked: The duck ravioli

What we didn’t like: The chilly air conditioning

Dh500 for a meal for two

Oasis Beach Towers, Dubai Marina, Dubai;

04-3994311

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