Our quest for water among the rocky wilderness of Wadi Wurayah, which boasts the UAE’s only permanent waterfall, wouldn’t be dissimilar to that of nomadic Bedouins in ancient times.
Fancying it to be a jolly ride, a colleague of mine and I set off on an adventure trip early on a Thursday morning. Driving an untested 4x4 vehicle on the rugged terrains of Hajar mountain range, we are in search of a ‘Promised Valley’.
Though it tested our limits — we being of bulky build — the ride proved to be jolly indeed. A ride that would send your adrenaline gushing, not unlike the waterfall we were looking for.
Situated between Khor Fakkan and Bidya on the eastern coast, Wadi Wurayah is approximately 180kms from Dubai — with the last 10kms of the stretch being off road. The drive is as much a learning experience as it is fun, giving a quick overview of varied topographies the country has to offer — from the golden sand dunes around Dubai to the lush green villages and oasis towns in the eastern region leading to the towering mountain range of Hajar.
Glimpses of the eastern countryside and the rustic charm that the route offers is a refreshing contrast to the unending concrete conundrum that is Dubai.
As we cruise along the winding highway it throws more than a few surprises at us; a sturdy bull jaywalking on the road, herds of goats and sheep grazing (yes you’re reading correctly, they were indeed grazing in the green desert), a row of stud farms and stables offering thoroughbreds, a group of donkeys lolling around (I wasn’t expecting them to show up at all) and of course the desert ships relaxing in the sun.
All these we saw while we were still on the highway to Khor Fakkan. But the real thrill begins only when we turn from the highway to enter the narrow road which heads to the summit of the Wadi.
The lush Wadi, with its springs, pools, streams, waterfalls, wildlife (if you are lucky to spot one) and the breathtaking scenery, is awe-inspiring.
The jaw-dropping plunges, the almost 90 degree slopes and the swerves and curves of the narrow road are no less thrilling than a rollercoaster drive in an amusement park — I would any day exchange the latter for the former.
The quality of the road throughout is world class, but this road doesn’t take you to the waterfall, rather it ends abruptly at the summit. Sounds of gushing water can be heard from here and it seems we’re so close, yet it’s out of the sight.
To get a taste of the elixir we take a detour off road and that’s when the actual journey begins. It’s bumpy, it’s rocky and it’s intimidating. For once I feel we are in the midst of nowhere. It seems we are trapped between the imposing natural walls. I conjure up being crushed by the towering peaks or the gigantic canyon sandwiching us, (My colleague imagines us being taken in by flying dragons – he being a sci-fi fan). But the moment we see those small streams of water springing up from nowhere all our worries disappear and we forge ahead.
It’s now been a thirty-minute drive off road and there are still no signs of that promised waterfall and the terrain ahead looks harsher. But wherever I run my eyes I find traces of recent human adventures, giving us hope as well as saddening us (see box to find out the sad part). After a considerable amount of contemplation we decide to give our struggling SUV a breather and continue the rest of the journey on foot.
It was exciting to set foot on those ancient rocks, but after trudging along the dirt track for a fair distance without any sign of water on the horizon all the excitement starts evaporating. Fatigue starts getting the better of us and just when the first thought of giving up begins to cross our minds, I hear a sound and yes it is ‘the sound.’ A few more steps and I see it right across. Pure white liquid forcing down the rocky trail. It’s a sight to behold.
Swimming in the chilling waters of the natural pool we socialise with an adventurous group of Pakistanis (a rare occasion of sub-continental camaraderie, given the current situation). After a while, some Russians, Britons and an Uzbeki scientist join the pool party. And just as we step out of the rejuvenating water, a bunch of locals come in, consummating the cosmopolitan feel.
On our way back we paid a quick visit to the 15^th century Bidya mosque (the UAE’s oldest), which is just a 15-minute drive away from both Wadi Wurayah and the Khor Fakkan beach, signing off on a spiritual note.
 
Scars of invasion

There must hardly be any place on earth where human race have reached and haven’t left a mark on it, either ugly or good. Unfortunately, Wadi Wurayah, which was recently declared the UAE’s first protected mountain habitat, isn’t an exception. Scars of human invasion are etched all over the place. Loads of discarded stuff are strewn all across the Wadi — cigarette packs, plastic bottles, polythene, ashes and the ugliest of all is the graffiti sprayed all over the rocks. Though the environmental authorities and the Emirates Wildlife Society have done a commendable job in getting the valley under wildlife protection, a lot needs to be done in actuality. Conservation of the Wadi has been in the pipeline for years, now after being official declared a protected zone the efforts should gather pace. Since great significance has been attached to the Wadi’s fresh water, its flora and fauna, as well as to its archaeological history, damaging it would definitely attract huge penalties. Plans are in the offing to train local tribesmen as rangers and soon you might get caught while sending that Coke can flying in the wadi. Lets hope the visitors would change their littering habits before it’s too late. A little extra effort would go a long way in protecting the beautiful but delicate nature of the Wadi.

Fact Box

Wadi Wurayah Distance: Approximately 180kms from Dubai Duration: About three hours one-way (including the off road part) Nearest landmark: Khor Fakkan Beach Must: A four-wheel-drive Highlights: Waterfall and the fresh water pool

shafaat@khaleejtimes.com