Chills and Thrills in Skopje

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Chills and Thrills in Skopje

Prepare to be surprised by the capital of Macedonia - that has managed to shrug off its former Yugoslav hangover, and emerge as a modernist city replete in history

By Anjaly Thomas

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Published: Thu 2 Feb 2017, 1:27 PM

The morning I arrived in Skopje, the capital of Macedonia, I knew I'd done the right thing. The six-hour bus ride, including border checks at the Serbian border, was smooth; and as beautiful mornings go, it was one of the finest. I walked into the cold morning, smiling. The moment demanded it. Promptly, I hailed a taxi and directed it to my hotel (Bushi Resort and Spa for me, yes sir!) nestling between the 6th century Kale Fortress and the Old Town; I saw no sense in lounging about the bus station, photographing a grey skyline so early in the morning. By 7.30am, I was ready to explore the fortress that, I was told, was always open and free to visit. From atop the ancient fort walls, I saw the beautiful city of Skopje, fanned by national flags fluttering in the wind accompanied by gentle rain showers and, of course, the chill that came with it. I was drenched, but deeply in love.
The Macedonia Square
Following a satisfying breakfast of Macedonian cheese, I arrived at the brand-new Macedonia Square (the Town/City Centre) after a short but fruitful visit to the Old Town market. The contrast was stark and I stared till somehow the reality of Macedonia started to make sense.
Twenty five years ago, Macedonia had peacefully won independence from former Yugoslavia. But how did that tie in with the hugely expensive makeover of the Square that I stood staring at? Well, the multi-million euro makeover that gave the city gigantic statues was intended to help erase every trace of socialism during Yugoslavia. Despite the huge costs of reshaping the otherwise modernist city (rebuilt after the 1963 earthquake), the idea worked and today the Macedonia Square is a hub for tourists and residents alike, boasting of museums, government buildings and National Theatre restructured in baroque style. Clearly, rebuilding is Macedonia's specialty.
I was particularly fascinated by one statue - of a giant horseman, which, I was told, was the 'Warrior on a Horse' (also called 'Alexander the Great' in hushed tones). A fountain and water-spouting lions surrounding the base of this statue completed the magnificent creation. I wasn't sure what it was meant to represent, but it was impressive alright. that and the 40 other monuments and sculptures installed around. Here, cafes and restaurants abound - packed to capacity, buzzing with a very positive energy, the kind that is endearing. The area buzzes with nightlife; it's also a hot spot for shopaholics as the city's two biggest malls are located in the vicinity.
I walked down the road directly in front of this statue till I came across the Memorial House of Mother Teresa. The Saint of Calcutta was born here - in a small house in Skopje, although she was of Albanian ethnicity. Macedonians are very proud of this fact, generous in saying that "Mother Teresa belongs to the world."
Churches and museums
Being a recently converted enthusiast of European history, I was delighted to find many churches and museums here. As a typical Eastern European country, Macedonia too has a fair share of historical monuments, mosques and churches still in existence, many of them in Skopje. Many of the religious houses are within walking distance of each other. Skopje is a walkable city, and wearing sensible flat shoes is helpful, although it is not uncommon to see women in high heels walk the cobbled streets without concern.
Of the most notable mosques is the Mustafa Pasha Mosque, an Ottoman-era mosque in Old Town that stands intact centuries later and contains the grave of the Pasha's daughter. I particularly loved the pretty rose garden that for no reason reminded me of Frances Hodgson Burnett's The Secret Garden!
With this happy thought, I walked down to the Old Bazaar district, the centre of life during the Ottoman rule beginning in 1392 and continuing for nearly five centuries, munched on some warm and crusty burek, a legacy of the Turks, before walking up another steep alley, past coffee shops pouring onto the streets towards the Church of the Holy Saviour (Sveti Spas Church) that has one of the most fascinating and intricate iconostasis and a 17th-century fresco that I'd ever seen. The cheerful courtyard houses the grave of Macedonia's greatest national hero, Goce Delchev, and it is built a few metres into the ground for when the Turks ruled, they forbade a church to have a dominant exterior.
As the evening wore on, I enjoyed an early dinner of Macedonian-style chicken and a large portion of shopksa salata, a local favourite, right by the bustling square, watching the fountain change colours. It was said that a quarter of the country's population lived in the capital city and, at that point, it did occur to me it could be true! On the other side, the Triumphal Arch, that was once white, watched.
The Giant Cross on Mt Vodno 
The next morning, I headed towards Mt Vodno to see the Millennium Cross towering over the city. In fact, the cross was easily seen from every corner in the city and is a popular spot for families and tourists looking for a day break. For the adventure lover, the cable car holds no appeal and from the swinging car I saw fitness enthusiasts sweating their way up the steep incline. The cross itself is the fifth biggest in the world and stands 66m tall - and was constructed to celebrate 2,000 years of Christianity in the country. From up here, on a clear day, the city of Skopje looks like a beautiful mix of the old and new rising into the skies - but only just. Up on Mt Vodno, you can never say when it gets misty. I only managed to get a selfie before everything turned white and cold.
Matka Canyon
On Day 3, I headed towards Matka Canyon, less than an hour's drive from Skopje, following the narrow path from the trailhead, past rocky overhanging and trees. Matka Canyon is bisected by the Treska river. To say it's beautiful would be an understatement. Picture this: a womb-shaped water body with clear blue waters surrounded by pointy and jagged cliffs and trees, the silence only broken by the occasional sound of birds or falling leaves.and, of course, the sound of oars as the brave explorers headed towards Cave Vrelo, which is among the deepest caves in Europe and has some jaw-dropping stalactites. I didn't see these, of course - it was cold! Instead, I sat in the coffee shop by the water and drank coffee, another Macedonian staple. I was getting used to the good life.
Coloured Mosque
I headed to Tetovo (a city in the northwestern part of Macedonia renowned for its beans), navigating heavy traffic before arriving at Sarena Dzamija Mosque (the Coloured Mosque). This was indeed a rare find. It was commissioned to be built by two sisters, so it does not have the standard outside dome typical of a mosque and it is coloured! Fancy that! The inside was a riot of colours while on the outside, it looked like playing cards placed next to each other.
Macedonia is definitely not what I had ever imagined it to be and I was more than convinced that I had accidentally arrived at one of the most beautiful and understated eastern European countries.
wknd@khaleejtimes.com


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