Ramadan: A rendezvous with Mappila cuisine

Muslims of Kerala's Malabar region are among the most unique and interesting communities in India.

From Oppana, a popular dance form among the Mappilas (Kerala Muslims), to Mappilapattu (Muslim devotional folk songs), Muslims of Kerala's Malabar region are among the most unique and interesting communities in India.
My family hails from Kannur, the largest city in the North Malabar region. I have spent a few of my growing years in the city and hence learnt about Malabar Muslim culture from my grandfather. He would say, "Never miss a puthyappala salkaram or thakkaram. It is like missing out on a great opportunity to enjoy the best food and the most wonderful hospitality that you will ever experience".
My grandfather would remind me of how important the holy month of Ramadan was for Muslims.
Though I have vague memories of tagging along with him for Eid Al Fitr to some of his Muslim friends' homes, I can never forget the delicious delicacies.
It is to revive those old but fond memories that I almost relentlessly chased Zahir Hassan and his family to experience an Iftar with them. Hailing from Mayyazhi or Mahe, Hassan is originally from Thalassery in Kannur district. "We settled in Mahe in 2005," said Hassan. A businessman who arrived in the UAE in 1986, Hassan said he came to the UAE with a "passport as well as a degree certificate."
His wife Shahanaz and his three daughters - Shireen, Sharafa and Shaza - graciously welcomed us into their home. There was still an hour to end fast, and Hassan invited me to chat about the relevance and importance of Ramadan from the perspective of a Malabar Muslim. Before launching into a detailed explanation about puthiyappala salkaram, Hassan clarified that Ramadan is a month of prayers and religious piety. "Though there is an air of festivity and excitement for the coming of Eid Al Fitr, Ramadan is not just an opportunity for us to make delicious food and celebrate," he said.
Shahanaz said: "It is true that we are famed for our hospitality and delicacies. However, it is not that we are showing off our culinary skills.... It is our culture, our way of showing respect for the person visiting."
Shahanaz's sister, Fathima Thanweer, who was visiting added: "My earliest memory of Ramadan is not about eating, it is about my father reciting the Holy Quran to me; that is my best memory."
Hassan added: "Malabar Muslims truly follow all tenets of the Muslim faith and give great importance to fasting. During my childhood days, I remember a drumbeater walking around our locality and waking people up for suhoor. After which, we'd hear the muezzin's call for the morning prayers and head over to the mosque for Fajr prayers."
The family spends all month in prayers; it's an opportunity to pray along with the family. Ramadan is also a time when the extended family comes together, said Shahnaaz. "We have a lot of family living in Dubai. Very often, since my wife and I are the eldest in our respective families, our siblings visit," she added.
Hassan's older daughter Shireen (22) said: "Even now, after Iftar, we pray together as a family." However, according to the girls, Ramadan in Kerala is very different than in Dubai.
Sharafa (19) said: "In our house, we end fast in a particular way. We start by having dates, lemon juice and lots of fruits. Then the family prays together.
Shahnaz and Fathima went on to explain the different kinds of snacks served during Iftar and Eid. "Snacks made from egg and ripe banana play a major role in our cuisine," said Fatima. "Common snacks are unnakai (sweet dish made of ripe bananas), eracchi patthiri (meat stuffed pastries), petti patthil, chatti patthil (variants of meat pastries), eracchi puttu (meat stuffed baked rice cakes), muttamala (a delicacy made of eggs)... the list is endless," she added.
Seafood like prawns and mussels also plays a major role in the cuisine. "Arikkudukka (stuffed mussels) is a hot favourite," said Fathima. The cuisine has slightly evolved over the years, said the sisters. "People have become quiet innovative with the food. However, the basic dishes remain the same," added Shahnaz.
The family headed over to the dining table after prayers, where the table was filled with delicacies.
"Eid is the most festive affair for our household," said Hassan.
"We prepare biryani, fried chicken, areesa and several other foods," added Shireen. "Feasting continues throughout the day."
After a scrumptious Iftar, I settled down on the couch while Shahnaz served us milk tea. One sip and I was transported back to my childhood days in Kannur When I asked her how she made the tea, she rep-lied, smiling: "There is only one special ingredient. We add our love and affection to it for our guests."
dhanusha@khaleejtimes.com

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