The Maximalist

larger-than-life Indian fashion designer Rohit Bal speaks his mind about never, ever cutting down on his beautifully-balanced opulence

"Enfant Terrible", "Peter Pan" and "The Showman" are just some of the monikers used to describe one of Indian fashion's most iconic designers: Rohit Bal. Someone who is not afraid to speak his mind, Bal celebrates 25 years in the industry this year. He was in Dubai just a few weeks ago and comes back again this weekend - making a statement with not just clothes but crystals too. This season, Bal has launched a line of crystalware handcrafted by cutters in Czech Republic, Slovakia and Central Europe.
Bal has seen the Indian fashion industry grow in front of his eyes. At the time he started, there were only a handful of fashion designers mainly working from studios, as there was no organised retail from designers at that point. Today, he is looking to franchise his diffusion line 'Balance', and hopes to open 40 stores by the end of next year. And perhaps one of these will be in Dubai, as the pop-up he hosted last year in the city was a sellout.
Recently, he was the main draw at the Couture Wedding Affair hosted by Harper's Bazaar Bride India at the Pallazzo Versace, and he's back for another flash retail experience at the Taj Dubai in Business Bay.
This has been a busy year for Bal as he was the finale designer for the Spring/Summer edition of Lakme Fashion Week and also the closing designer at the most recent India Couture Week. If there is one thing Rohit Bal knows how to do, it is to put on a show! Having chosen the heritage site of St Xavier's College in Mumbai as his backdrop, the collection was called 'Koroshini', which in Urdu means to illuminate (as did the spectacular lighting created for this show). The lightness in his collection came through his use of fabrics such as malmal and chanderi and a use of hand made cutwork and lattice.

And, of course, it was decadent: metallics and the use of black ensured that this was a collection full of opulence. Bal's fashion showpieces are museum-worthy, thanks to the use of only the best fabrics and his rich embroideries. There is always a vintage feel as Bal often references silhouettes from the Mughal period.
The other constant in Bal's collection is Kashmir, the state of his birth. "I was born in Kashmir so it is in my genes. It is inherent in everything I do. The time I spent in the Valley, I will never forget. It's my heritage and I am very proud of it." It explains his love of motifs such as peacocks and the lotus. "These are all reminiscent of my days spent in Kashmir and speak of my love for Kashmir."
There is passion in everything Bal does. A believer in crafts, his knowledge of India's fashion heritage could be turned into an encyclopedia. It has to be said, though, that he does not receive as much credit as he deserves for his commitment to traditional crafts. Perhaps it is overshadowed by his "larger-than-life" image, but that stems from his complete joie de vivre. He lives the good life, and makes no effort to hide the fact.
When he moved into wedding design a few years ago, it was a complete fit. Bal was already known for his beautiful aesthetics, and he enjoys a good party. "The design sensibility remains the same: it's very Indian, with my signature floral aesthetics, yet it's very modern. When you are inside the venue, the design and style reflects our rich Indian culture. The whole experience is one-of-a-kind, it may happen anywhere - be it in New York, Dubai or Paris - but it is world-class quality."
This is the feel that he now carries through to his crystal ware that uses 24-carat gold and platinum; you can see the familiar motifs you associate with Bal.
He is also looking to expand his menswear range, something he started his career with. With men like Arjun Rampal and Ranveer Singh being faithful to Rohit Bal for their evening wear, it was about time that Bal opened his own store just for men. He has following that up with a line of accessories.
It may be his silver anniversary in the industry, but Bal still has enthusiasm - though he does miss his early days. "The fun has gone. I miss the personal feeling of it all. It's become rather cutthroat now."
Bal has always been known to be a loyal friend, but he always speaks his mind. He recently took to social media to talk about the state of the industry. He described some designers as "wannabes", with "absolute disregard for originality". He ruffled some feathers and there were some who felt that it would have been more dignified for a senior designer to stay quiet, but Bal stands by his belief that there is a lack of originality in the industry. "My personal belief is that one has to create one's own niche and signature."
There is no question Bal has his own stamp; one of the Rohit Bal must-haves is a jellabiya, a silhouette that has its roots in this region. His versions are made with beautiful fabrics such as handspun cottons or silk velvets. He uses metres and metres of these fine materials as, for Bal, it is always about being a maximalist.
Like other Bal creations, you will find copycat versions in the market, but getting that sense of opulence while keeping things elegant is a balance that only he gets spot-on.
sujata@khaleejtimes.com