Raziqueh Hussain, Dubai
21 May 2009
With the completion of the dome of the Al Asakryia Shrine and the integration of sects to rebuild it, Samarra is shown off as the Iraq’s success story on the road to recovery
Standing in the centre of Samarra - a strife torn city in central Iraq - surrounded by American troops, the only sounds I could hear were the crunching of the shards of glass and a bulldozer rumbling past laden with fragments of a destroyed dome.
I passed the ruins of the blown up police head quarters and entered a corridor of eight-foot long concrete slabs called T-walls. A heavily guarded checkpoint controls entry into the most sensitive edifice in Iraq: the Askariya Shrine, or Mosque of the Golden Dome, one of the holiest sites in Shia Islam. It was in 2006, that terrorists blew up the majestic golden tomb and almost destroyed the foundations of the nation, but with the help of all factions of Iraqi society it has raised again.
The men restoring the mosque were working at a Herculean task. Haider Al Yaqubi, the technical adviser to the project from Baghdad, had made me promise quoting him only on conditions of anonymity unless of course, “Alhamdollillah, (Praise be to God) (when) the dome will rise again.”
So now, I owe it to the gentlemen to give him his due. The Al Askariya shrine is the final resting place of the 10th Imam, Ali Al Naqi and his son the 11th Imam, Hassan Al Askari.
Enhancing the sanctity of the premises is the Blue Mosque or Sardaab (cellar) where the 12th Imam, Al Mahdi went into occultation, and the belief is that, he will return after an apocalyptic last battle to restore justice in the world.
The United Nations has declared it a world heritage site of cultural and natural importance to humanity.
I stood outside Sardaab for a fairly long time hoping to catch someone who could tip me on the progress of the reconstruction. After mustering some courage I walked towards this man whom everyone was referring to “Akhi Haider” (bother Haider). As soon as he saw me approaching, he pointed towards the ladies entrance to the shrine. I gave him a brief introduction and after a few moments of contemplation, he acceded.
During the short conversation, he revealed that there were an equal number of people from both sects who were working to rebuild it. Even the Iraqi Christians had donated a large amount. He said Arch Bishop Louis Sako of Kirkuk had set up a collection drive and in his letter had said,
“We are not facing a civil war; it would be the end of Iraq and no one wants this.”
Much credit must go to the Sons of Iraq (former insurgents) and the Awakening Councils who man checkposts and security in Samarra.
Despite being “completely destroyed” Samarra is the only Iraqi city where major security players from different religious sects work together in a semblance of harmony. Selling steaming cups of kahwah to Iraqi and American soldiers, Ahmed Aroos, plans on starting an ice cream shop.
“”Rebuilding the mosque will help bring civilisation back to the city,” he said. “But if we want to make the economy of Samarra good, the people have to stand on their own two legs and sell ice-cream!”
On March 23rd , a ceremony in Samarra took place which was reminiscent of the opening of the Berlin wall. To the sound of cheering and clapping, a young Iraqi man dressed in sweatpants and sandals strapped hooked chains onto the lifting points of the T-walls. Ten individual barriers were lifted - removed!
“Samarra has become very peaceful,” said Khaled, on television.
“The barriers remind us of bad times, but it is time to look towards the future and enjoy our peace. It is time to reopen Samarra.”
And it’s time to fulfill my promise to Akhi Haider. While proudly pointing to the workers sorting the rubble in the courtyard, he had said,
“I want to give a message to the world that the integration of different sects is taking place at this site. We don’t differentiate between who is helping whom. It’s not important,”I nodded in agreement as he added, “Iraq is like a rainbow, so when we are rebuilding this mosque we are picking different colours (groups),” he finished as a caterpillar bulldozer trundled along to the main entrance as visitors scuttled to make way.
As I looked outside my bus window at the bullet-pocked buildings and a ghost town passing by, I remembered my promise to Akhi Haider in return for his quotes. I thought it was practically impossible at that time.
“Once the dome is complete, promise me that you will show off Samarra as (an emerging) success story in Iraq’s recovery,” he told, confidently. I hope I just fulfilled my promise.
