Mashhad in Iran is the place where every visitor or better pilgrim goes. It has been a magnet for millions from medival times.

The shrine of Imam Raza, the 8^th Imam is the holiest city after Qom. It is a pleasant place full of trees and avenues. The beautiful turquoise tomb of the Khorasan museum and the dazzling dome of the haram is definitely an architectural bliss.

Today the holy shrine and its museum hold one of the most extensive cultural and artistic treasuries of Iran, in particular manuscript books and paintings. Iman Raza was martyred in 823 AD in a town called Toos on the outskirts of modern day Mashhad. He is also known as Imam Zamin or the Guarantor.

In the 13^th century after Toos was destroyed by the invading Mongols, Sultan Mahmood Ghaznavi built a mausoleum in Mashhad (meaning ‘Place of Martyrdom’), and thereafter once the shrine was built there to commemorate the Imam, it in turn gave rise to increasing demographical development.  

The complex is impressive from the outside - a huge area in the centre of the city, lots of blue mosiac tiling on the outside.

Stepping through the gates into the complex itself however, I was astounded at the size. Inside are about 7 different courtyards, two mosques and countless theological schools and museums. And all around are pilgrims.

A walk past the large courtyard had milling crowds moving in all directions. It’s breathtaking to see how people struggle to touch the zarih (covering) which surrounds the musoleum of Imam Raza. Above all, the ladies side is the wildest. I can vouch for that! Laura, a British national, in a full black chador was excited about her visit there.

“It is so impressive to see with how much devotion the people throw themselves at the shrine, kiss it and often break out in tears,” she said over-whelmed.

That’s the power of faith - miracles take place in Mashhad, I pointed out. But there are restrictions on non-Muslims entering certain areas inside the shrine premises and Laura was most upset with that.  

What she found intimidating was the fact that religious guards were surrounding most of the restricted areas and she would invariably bump into one. “What I fear most are their ‘weapons’ to direct people, and they hit you with it when the chador slips off the head to show a bit of my hair!” she blurted ruefully.

I knew that she was mistaken because these women guards are very friendly people and most hospitable and would never harm any pilgrim inside the shrine. Not believing her at all I turned around imagining some insane looking sticks or rods in their hands to attack.

How women religious guards can look formidable when they are using rainbow coloured polyester feather dusters to direct people I do not know - but they managed it!