Find Nordic bliss in Norway

Famous for its majestic fjords, the northern kingdom of Norway is called the Land of the Midnight Sun, and for good reason. We visit its capital, Oslo, and second city, Bergen, to find out more

Oslo may have earned the dubious reputation for being one of the most expensive cities in the world, but that shouldn't discourage anyone from visiting. A very compact city, Oslo is easy to navigate either using its extensive public transport network or on foot. Even though its modernity is apparent at first glance, the city is immersed in nature with its forests, hills, fjords, and lakes.  
Most visitors will begin exploring the city at its modern but unremarkable Central Station, which is home to a shopping arcade, a few hotels and the Visit Oslo office, which sells the Oslo Pass. The Pass - available in 24-, 48-, and 72-hour packages - offers access to the major tourists sites, including the city's many excellent museums, and the public transport network. Get there early enough and visitors will see organised gangs of beggars congregating to divide the lucrative central business district between themselves.
A short walk away lies the iconic Oslo Opera House: a modern, glass and marble structure that resembles a sharp-edged iceberg floating in the fjord. Visitors are invited to walk around its roof and take in the views on regular days, but can also take in a free concert on selected summer nights. Around the Opera House, the city's 'Barcode Skyline' takes shape, ultra-modern buildings that are redefining Norway's capital. 
From Vikings to Fine Art 
Most visitors, however, head away and on towards Oslo's Museum District, which is particularly popular with families. Here, nautical enthusiasts and wannabe explorers can learn the inspiring story of Thor Heyerdahl and his expeditions, or visit the Polar exploration ship, the Fram, which, at various times, hosted a long line of Norwegian explorers, including Roald Amundsen. 
The excellent Viking Ship Museum has a beautiful collection of well-preserved longboats and, if you're lucky, you may bump into a card-carrying hoarde of Vikings on a day-trip. The ninth century oak-built boats, with grand dragon and serpent carvings on the stern and prow, were not used at sea but as tombs, for noble Vikings. Along with the bodies, items of importance to the deceased, such as jewellery, furniture, food supplies, servants, carriages and sleighs, tapestries and vicious-looking figures were found onboard during the excavations and are currently on display. 
A little further down the road is the open-air Norwegian Folk Museum, the largest of its kind in the country. A hit with the kids, who love clambering around the wooden huts and looking at the farm animals, the Museum is home to over 140 buildings, many of them transplanted from their original locations, and populated with traditionally attired Norwegians. If you've ever wondered what life in Norway was like in the 17th and 18th centuries, this is the place to visit. 
A short boat-ride from the Museum District transports visitors to a jetty near the Nobel Peace Center, reminding them that every year, on December 10, the Peace Prize is awarded in Oslo. Located in a former railway station, the Center showcases every Nobel Peace Laureate in history and their activities, and Alfred Nobel, himself. 
Art lovers will also make a beeline to the National Gallery, which contains Norway's largest collection of art and includes works by Gauguin, Picasso and El Greco, and impressionists such as Manet, Degas, Matisse, Cézanne, and Monet. The Gallery's centerpiece, however, is The Scream, painted by Norwegian national treasure, Edvard Munch. Security at the museum has been considerably beefed up after the painting was famously stolen in 1994 by thieves who left behind a note reading, "Thanks for the poor security."
No visit to Oslo is complete without visiting the neoclassical Royal Palace, which stands impressively at the top of Karl Johans' Gate. Unlike other palaces in Europe, visitors can walk almost up to the front door and can freely roam its sprawling gardens. The Changing of the Guard may seem long and tedious, but that doesn't stop large crowds from gathering to watch the ceremony at 1:30pm each day. 
Family-Friendly Oslo
Beyond the sights, Oslo is incredibly family-friendly. With dedicated airport queues and no shortage of freebies and activity packs at hotels, restaurants, and even on the express train from and to the airport, the city warmly welcomes its younger visitors. And while museum-hopping can quickly turn into a chore for children, the city offers a whole range of parks to help break the monotony while offering a free lesson in art. Amongst the highlights is the Frogner Park, often referred to as Vigeland Sculpture Park due to the numerous installations by the Norwegian sculptor Gustav Vigeland, who also designed the Nobel Peace Prize medal. 
Also popular is the Ekebergparken Sculpture Park, a National Heritage Park with a total of 31 sculptures, located in a wooded area with spectacular views of the city. There's also the Peer Gynt Sculpture Park, which was created to honour Norwegian writer Henrik Ibsen; the park's 20 sculptures represent his famous play, Peer Gynt, act-by-act. 
Bergen: Fjords, Seafood and Grieg 
A short flight or a spectacular train ride away from Oslo lies Norway's picturesque second city. While Oslo may not be postcard-worthy, Bergen certainly is, with its distinctive - and well-preserved - waterfront Hanseatic buildings and proximity to some of the country's most stunning fjords.
For those flying in, be warned that arriving at Bergen Airport can be a messy experience and a far cry from the ordered modernity of Oslo's Gardermoen Airport. 
As a coastal city, Bergen's focal point is its harbour. And where there's the sea, there's seafood. One unmissable experience is ordering up a dish of the day's catch, cooked to your taste, from any one of a row of harbourside eateries that offer little comfort beyond wooden benches and shelter from the rain.   
The city's old Hanseatic quarter, with its cobbled alleyways, has been refurbished with boutique stores occupying most of these historic buildings. A short trip up the funicular railway, Fløibanen, takes you to approximately 320 meters above sea level to Fløyen mountain. After taking in the spectacular views, it's well worth hiking through the woods with its numerous sculptures and play areas for children. Bergen receives a lot of rain, even in summer, and it's best to be dressed appropriately.  
Bergen is also a gateway to some of Norway's most spectacular fjords, including the Hardanger, which is the fourth longest in the world. The best way to explore it is to rent a car from Bergen airport and to spend a day or two driving through fjord-country. On the way from the airport, classical music lovers can stop at the well-preserved home of the late Edvard Grieg, Norway's most prominent composer, in Troldhaugen. Grieg is best known for his Piano Concerto in A Minor and for the distinctive suites that gave the melody to Henrik Ibsen's Peer Gynt.
Once in fjord-country, visitors will find themselves stopping frequently at the well-marked vantage points that dot the roads, allowing them to take home some spectacular pictures. While visiting Hardanger fjord, travellers can drive through the world's longest road tunnel, the 24.5-kilometer-long Lærdal Tunnel, and safely pull over to take pictures of its underground roundabout, with electric blue light bathing the walls hewn out of rock. To put it into context, the tunnel is roughly the same length as the distance between Dubai Marina and the World Trade Centre! 
Apart from long tunnels and spectacular views, the fjords have plenty of picturesque villages and towns that are worth a visit. Some farms along the way will allow you to pick your own berries and apples, depending on the season. 
The air is fresh, the food is good and the views will have you snapping away. And this is just a small portion of what Norway has to offer.  
wknd@khaleejtimes.com