Katsuya Uechi: A Master Sushi Chef unlike any other

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Katsuya Uechi: A Master Sushi Chef unlike any other

Dubai - He can hardly name the celebrities who dine at his LA hotspot; eschews reality shows and proudly proclaims he has no passion for his work. So what makes Master Sushi Chef Katsuya Uechi, who recently opened his Dubai outpost, tick?

By Ambica sachin

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Published: Thu 25 May 2017, 3:45 PM

Last updated: Tue 30 May 2017, 11:23 AM

If ever you find yourself in the presence of Chef Katsuya Uechi, we suggest you eat the sushi served up by him before getting into any pleasantries. That's because nothing upsets the Chef more than having diners indulge in chitchat while a freshly rolled sushi sits by idly, waiting to be eaten.
Not that one can get by with much chitchat with the formidable Master Sushi Chef Katsuya who upon first sight comes across as the typical Japanese stereotype - stoic and unbendable.
While most of our questions elicit monosyllabic answers and some, laughter, we realise Katsuya, while not a man of many words, is still a chef who has much to impart. Unlike many of his counterparts who can put a bard to shame with their ramblings, and seem more at home in front of a camera than in a hot kitchen, Chef Katsuya, it is obvious, would rather be behind the sushi bar. Serving up rolls of warm sticky rice paired with fresh fish slices. To diners who preferably are not there to socialise or chat each other up. But eat quality food, served up by a master chef with a solid foundation in the required culinary skills and not one honed on the sets of a reality show. "I don't think their (chefs on reality shows) technique is right, I'm sorry," he says almost apologetically when we quiz him on the modern chefs' penchant to add the reality television tag to their CVs. Then as if to clear the air, "I have nothing against them.. I maybe old-fashioned but I don't like that.
"I did host reality shows several times but it's all show. Food should be to eat (sic)."

What to expect at Katsuya
With a team headed by chefs trained at the LA flagship Katsuya by Starck, the Dubai outlet can look forward to many of the best-selling signature items as well as ones specially made for the region like the Edamame Hummus. The Wagyu Tobanyaki served alongside sizzling wild mushrooms could well be one of the Chef's personal favourites, since he is a self-confessed fan of steak.
Fusion for all
Born and raised in Japan, Katsuya moved to the US in 1984 and went on to make a name for himself as a Master Sushi Chef. He is widely credited with incorporating the California style into the traditional Japanese cuisine - the fusion, of course, resulting in sushi taking over the world tables. But merely serving up world-class sushi to discerning diners in the LA area wasn't enough for the chef, who has expanded to the Middle East as well, with outposts in Kuwait and Dubai.
During our meet, we are clearly told Katsuya's mission is to educate people about the tradition and culture of Japanese food. Not that he ever "imagined I would be travelling around the world."
 So what advice would he give his younger self? "Don't rush. Get the right foundation and never give up. If you don't give up, chance will come."
'Celebs are not going to pay double'
Most chefs would be proud to rattle off the names of celebrities who hang-out at their establishment; to trumpet the star-endorsement as well as to draw in more customers who might drop in on the off-chance of catching sight of their favourite Hollywood star, but Chef Katsuya has to be really prodded to name his regulars.
We enthusiastically ask him about the celebs who visit his restaurant. His reaction? "There are many - shall I name them?" Upon our, "Of course, yes," he thinks for a minute and then slowly says, "Cameron Diaz." And? "I don't know their names.."
Then as if to explain the lack of forthcoming names, "We don't treat them special. They just come and we treat them same as other customers."
"Other restaurants in LA, when movie stars come, they use them for PR.
"But I don't want to do that. Because they are not going to pay double, you know?"
Business, however, seems to the focus for the chef who had flown down from LA for the opening of his latest stylish outlet Katsuya by Starck rat Jumeirah Al Naseem. Not even the beguiling sights of Dubai could tempt him away from the sushi bar, we hear.
World on your plate
The fish plated up at Katsuya by Starck is sourced from across the world with the restaurant using local vendors who fly in fresh fish every week, delivered every day to their doorsteps. "We have fish that is coming from Japan, Alaska, the Mediterranean - depending on the season and the availability."
With such focus on quality and freshness, it is no surprise that Katsuya wants diners to eat what is plated up in front of them pronto.
"When I am standing at the Sushi bar I am always telling customers, 'if you want to eat properly, listen to me'. That's the best way.
"Sometimes people talk - even when they see the sushi on the plate... they don't touch it.
"It makes me unhappy. So they should eat it warm. And talk later. Because it is fresh fish and the rice should be little bit warm when you eat it."
Sushi lovers, pay heed!
Sushi goes international
The business side of Katsuya should be the least of The Chef's worries, going by the reports of the popularity of his restaurants, be it the flagship restaurant in LA or the ones in Kuwait or other parts of the world. Not surprising considering sushi has slowly but surely taken over the eating habits of everyone from the curry-loving Brits to the spice-craving Indians. Query him about sushi's popularity, and the Chef has no answers, except to say, "Of course it is healthy and simple. I have no idea besides that!"
While he might be making a living out of sushi rolls, Katsuya's favourite cuisine, besides sushi, is steak. "Actually I have a steak restaurant myself. Doing not good but. (Laughter)"
Why is that so? "Cause that's not my specialty!"
So what does it take to build up a successful food business? Passion?
"No," he is almost reflective when he answers us and then almost apologetically but with conviction, "Actually I don't have passion."
"A lot of people ask me: Do you have passion? I just enjoy what I do. Usually a lot of chefs say - 'Customers happy, make me happy'. To me I enjoy it. I'm happy, then customers happy (laughter). Otherwise if you are not happy, how can you make people happy?"

We tell him of the Indian belief that the emotions of the person who cooks food passes on to the one who eats it. Katsuya nods appreciatively; "I didn't know that, but I really believe that. Sushi is made with your hand and our hand gets energy from us. So if you have anger or any negative energy it shows. So you should be happy. Before you can make the customer happy."
ambica@khaleejtimes.com
 


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