Discover the real Emirates

Think the UAE lacks heritage? You're not looking hard enough, says David Light

THE CONTINUAL GROWTH of imported American franchises, ever increasing numbers of malls and their elevated status in the UAE's collective consciousness and a proliferation of signs adorned with the phrase "DRIVE THRU" could lead one to conclude that this country's indigenous cultural landscape is fast disappearing.
Though, this would be gross short-sightedness. Yes, for some, the consumer/ luxury sector is a massive draw to live or visit the emirates. You can't escape it and to deny it would be madness. The striving for modernity and ease of life since the discovery of oil has given rise to an influx of corporations hoping to capitalise on what is still a maturing yet cash-rich market. The encroachment is to such an extent that the term 'Dubai' is now synonymous with 'high-end'. How many times has a grandiose scene presented itself, for example a line of million-dollar sports cars pulling into a five-star hotel, and someone has proclaimed, "that's so Dubai"? Turn the clock back sixty years and the same phrase may have been applied to a camel train appearing over a far off dune or a pearl diver emerging from the depths waving his catch above his head.
While it would be ludicrous to complain about the vastly more comfortable lifestyles enjoyed by all (romantic notions of the past can be offset by simply stepping outside for five minutes at the moment and imagining living in such oppressive heat) and in full acknowledgement that the opulence attracts many, spending any amount of time here, you do wonder if the country's traditions are under threat of extinction, ironically consumed by consumerism.
Two recent events have thankfully persuaded me otherwise. Backed by the UAE government to ensure local customs subsist and take root in the next generation, the Al Gaffal dhow race and the Liwa Date Festival are to be treasured by local and expatriate residents in equal measure. They may not produce the same hype as a One Direction concert or a fashion show, but provide unique and more valuable insights into the rich social tapestry of this place we call home.
The Al Gaffal dhow race pits 2,500 Emirati racers against each other in a weekend of sailing from Sir Bu Nair Island off Sharjah to the finish line at Mina Seyahi, Dubai, for a share of the $2.7million prize pool. The Liwa Date Festival in the fantastically remote Western Region near the Saudi border celebrates the fruit and again offers a prize fund of $1.2 million for categories including the 'most beautiful date,' or the 'tallest palm tree.' Both occasions involve an element of competition to encourage participation given that the use of dhows and date growing are no longer necessary commercial endeavours. Each of the contests has witnessed expansion year on year.
Visiting the race and festival for the first time, I was overawed by the welcoming atmosphere. Far from being eyed with suspicion, partakers embraced my curiosity. Merely showing interest was enough to be accepted and afforded me the opportunity to explore more of the foundations upon which Emirati society is founded. I invite you to put off the shopping trip, do some research and try something similar. You won't regret it.
(david@khaleejtimes.com)