Approaching anywhere by boat is generally impressive, but nothing had prepared me for the approach to Pangkor Laut. Wooden villas in stilts perched over the water, strips of white sand all backed by dense rainforest rising high into the interior of the island. Just four hours previously, I’d been in the hustle and bustle of Malaysian capital Kuala Lumpur — a world away from the quiet beauty of Pangkor Laut.

Pangkor Laut was the original escape destination of the eighties and nineties. Set on a private island amidst some of Malaysia’s oldest rainforests, with villas on stilts over the sea, it was the final word in luxury. Not many resorts could maintain the aura of a dream destination for over two decades, but Pangkor Laut has.

My initial impression of the resort only increased when I was shown into the villa. Set on the end of a long wooden pier, the villa had a view straight out onto the ocean and a private balcony on which I could imagine whiling away many an hour staring at the picturesque view.

Each morning I’d start the day with a yoga class on a pavilion by the sea, something that became so much a routine I couldn’t imagine how I’d ever started a day otherwise. The calm lapping of the water on the rocks as I worked my way through the sun salutation routine helped me to appreciate yoga in a way I’d never been able to when practising in the sweaty confines of a dark, mirrored room at home.

Although Pangkor Laut is an island escape, there’s more than enough variety to occupy visitors for any length of time. Guests can kayak around the island, or snorkel to see the many species of fish that have made the island’s waters their home. One of the highlights of my trip was the trip with the resident naturalist into the island’s rainforest interior, where we spied snakes, termites and the island’s rather boisterous monkeys.

Another evening I took the sunset cruise where we were lucky enough to witness one of the most stunning sunsets I’ve ever seen — a matter of five minutes and the sun had completely disappeared behind the horizon.

There are several restaurants dotted around the island, each one unique in offering a different style of cuisine. If you’re looking for fine dining in a magnificent setting, then the adult-only Straits restaurant is the place to go. The restaurant creates special tasting menus tailored to your tastes for a memorable dining experience.

Fisherman’s Cove dishes up the catch of the day — watching the talented chefs whipping up your food in the open kitchen is an experience not to be missed. Jamu Bar serves up Japanese specialties in the Spa Village area, perfect for satisfying your appetite after a rigorous treatment. Alternatively, head to Uncle Lim’s to try some of the regional Nyonya food, a fusion of Malaysian, Chinese and Portuguese cuisines.Located on the far side of the island, away from most of the villas, Emerald Bay is postcard perfect with its white, sandy beach and piercing blue waters.

One of the draws of the Pangkor Laut spa is the bath-house experience that precedes each treatment. After wrapping and pinning me into a traditional sarong, my therapist led me to a parlour where she practised the age-old art of Chinese foot tapping. Originally devised to restore circulation in the feet for girls whose feet had been bound, your feet are lightly tapped with a wooden hammer, which is surprisingly relaxing.

After the tapping, the experience continues with a short spell in a traditional Malay plunge pool and some time in a Japanese-styled washing room where you can scrub down with a goshi goshi cloth. I was led to a warm pool and given some ginger tea, after which the therapist exfoliated my skin with a glove. All this before the treatment!

I wanted to try something a little different and had booked in for a traditional Chinese massage, which focuses on your pressure points to stimulate the body’s healing and overall health, followed up by a traditional facial.

A variety of the guests — local families on a short weekend break, honeymooners, people just looking to escape from it all — can be found in the quiet and friendly resort. After a few hours, I understood the appeal; the island’s laid-back and friendly demeanour is paired with a five-star luxury.

My five days were soon over, and I was on the boat again, this time watching as the island got smaller and smaller as we sailed back to the mainland. My thoughts as we headed back? “Next time I’m booking for ten days at least”. 

julianna.barnaby@hotmail.co.uk